£46.75 £55.00
Ritchey Aero OCR Pro wheel rim, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 440 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one rim, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket) - pretty lightweight for a rim at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
'Off centre rim technology' features an assymetric spoke pattern that requires less dishing, allowing the rear wheel on a geared bike to be built with a more balanced tension than a traditional rim. Technically these could be used on the front but they are designed for rear use.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes.
Rim Size - the sizing given by the manufacturer, these can be confusing so we also give the ISO diameter too for clarification.
ISO Diameter - the diameter of the rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
Valve Type - presta valves are the thin ones and Schrader are the fatter ones. Schrader valve holes will also accept the older Dunlop/Woods type valves.
Rim Width (OD) - the width of the rim, measured from the outside of one wall to the other.
Rim Height - the overall height of the rim, measured to the highest point of the rim’s profile.
£35.00
Shimano Dura-Ace cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£33.25 £35.00
Selle Italia XR saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 267 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00 £40.00
Campagnolo Triomphe brake lever, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 95 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake lever at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake lever!
The brake lever has been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£34.00 £40.00
Sparrow freewheel, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 407 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£33.25 £35.00
Shimano RX100 front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1997 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 110 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£26.25 £35.00
Ritchey Girder Pro rim, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 533 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00 £40.00
Panaracer Smoke tyre, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 735 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£38.00 £40.00
Saccon Black brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 198 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) stem, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1970s & 1980s
Country - Japanese
Material - Aluminium
Weight - 286 g
Stock Code - D-ST46V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length - 60 mm
Quill Size - 1"
Steerer Size (ID) - 22.2 mm (Standard)
Shaft Height - 150 mm
Clamp Size - 26.0 mm
£29.75 £35.00
Campagnolo Mirage chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 41 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£42.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal Super Light chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£38.25 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal LA-5 chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1995 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 332 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£37.50 £50.00
Campagnolo Nuovo / Super Record downtube shifters, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 38 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£30.00
Campagnolo Super Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Titanium axle Super Record bottom brackets from the 70s & 80s used 3/16” bearings like the 1st generation C-Record model. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£40.50 £45.00
Sachs-Sedis Sedisport chain, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 331 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£25.00
Vintage water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 89 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£30.88 £32.50
Campagnolo Record dropout adjuster set (or alignment adjusting screws if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong dropout adjusters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Size - this is almost always 3.0 x 0.5 mm, with just one exception found on Huret dropouts where the thread size required is 3.0 x 0.6 mm. These can be tapped to accept standard dropouts if required.
Total Length - from end to end, including the end nut and screw head.
£31.50 £35.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 100 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, these versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage feature the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£32.50
Selle San Marco saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 333 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£27.00 £30.00
3TTT THE drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 325 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£35.00
Selle San Marco saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 286 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.25 £35.00
Dolf Van Vliet cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£34.00 £40.00
3TTT Start drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 315 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£35.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 92 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£48.75 £65.00
Wolber SL19 tyre, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber/cotton and weighing in at 278 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£29.75 £35.00
Shimano STX front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 151 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
JPR (Jean Paul Routens) Extra Light seatpost, in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 257 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£25.00
AFA Competition bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£28.00
Benotto Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£35.00
Ambrosio Bike Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
3TTT Mutant stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 310 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£42.50 £50.00
Rito handlebars, in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£38.25 £45.00
Ambrosio Campione Del Mondo drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 290 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£30.00 £40.00
Shimano Altus cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 300 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£47.50
Shimano FC-300 freewheel, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 365 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 105 SC front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 95 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£26.25 £35.00
Campagnolo Mirage front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 102 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£40.50 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 103 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£26.25 £35.00
Triplex front derailleur, hailing from Spain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 146 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£25.00
Shimano FD-AX50 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 150 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£31.50 £35.00
Deda Elementi 250 drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£33.75 £45.00
Michelin Semi-Confort tyres, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 1250 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£36.00 £40.00
Dia-Compe Blaze brake calipers, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 305 grams - pretty lightweight for a pair of brake calipers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim in a straight line. Your measurement must be well within the range of the caliper's given brake drop to allow the brakes to have good contact with the rim's braking surface.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£46.75 £55.00
Campagnolo Mirage chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 46 grams - pretty lightweight for a middle chainring at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£37.50 £50.00
Shimano Exage bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 339 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£35.00
Shimano Deore XT rear skewer, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 95 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£40.00
Deda Elementi Big Piega drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£25.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super/C-Record bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
As well as the various Record groups, these were also supplied with Gran Sport, Victory & Triomphe bottom brackets in the 1970s & 80s.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
SUBSCRIBE TO GET THE FIRST SCOOP
Exclusive content, new products, subscriber only promotions. Delivered to your inbox by tiny cyclists, every few weeks.
Don't worry, you can unsubscribe at any time.
PEDAL PEDLAR
T: 02036758003 // E: info@pedalpedlar.co.uk
© 2026 Pedal Pedlar.
Ecommerce Software by Shopify