£76.50 £90.00
Campagnolo Record chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s . Made from aluminium and weighing in at 36 grams - pretty lightweight for an inner chainring at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Ventura freewheel, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s . Made from steel and weighing in at 405 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£34.00 £40.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 88 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£114.75 £135.00
Cinelli 1A stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 324 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£40.38 £48.00
Selle Italia Carrera saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel and weighing in at 428 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£17.00 £20.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record / Gran Sport crank bolts, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 28 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank bolts!
The crank bolts have been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.
Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.
£38.25 £45.00
Wolber LX tyres, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 702 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£63.75 £75.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 295 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The very first Dura-Ace bottom bracket axles were stamped '333' with a date code that is specific to early Dura-Ace. The axles came with the GA-100 chainset but the specification remained the same when the FC-7110 chainset was introduced, so they are compatible with both models.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£25.50 £30.00
Shimano BB-UN52 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 332 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£46.75 £55.00
Ritchey TR3 Comp rear hub, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 472 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your frame's dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
£10.63 £13.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£10.63 £13.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£55.25 £65.00
Suntour GPX / Radius freewheel, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£20.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Sold Out £55.25
Silca Impero bicycle pump, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£59.50 £70.00
Shimano Deore LX rear hub, dating back to 1990 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 440 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£29.75 £35.00
Shimano STX front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 151 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£38.25 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal LA-5 chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£42.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal Super Light chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Specialites TA Cyclotourist chainring, hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 144 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
The chainring's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£29.75 £35.00
Campagnolo Mirage chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 41 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£17.00 £20.00
Kalin seatpost, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 153 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£114.75 £135.00
Selle Italia Flite saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s . Made from leather/vanox and weighing in at 222 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£72.25 £85.00
Suntour PowerFlo cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 316 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Atom 77 freewheel, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 405 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£89.25 £105.00
Sachs EY92 freewheel, hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£157.25 £185.00
Campagnolo Triomphe brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 193 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£29.75 £35.00
Christophe 50 / 506 toe clips, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 58 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£46.75 £55.00
Campagnolo Mirage chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 46 grams - pretty lightweight for a middle chainring at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£51.00 £60.00
Campagnolo Record C9 chain, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 311 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chain was designed to be used with.
Compatibility - the brand and/or shifting system the chain is compatible with. Universal means the chain can be used with any standard shifting system, as long as the speed and width are correct.
Chain width - the gap between the inner plates where the chain sits on the sprockets. 3/32" has been standard for bikes with derailleur gears since the mid 1900s. When 9 speed was introduced the spacing reduced slightly but if the speed & compatibility are correct this isn't something you need to pay attention to. Single speed, track & BMX bikes will require either a 3/32" or 1/8" chain depending on the width of the rear sprocket and/or chainring. There's also a much wider 3/16" moped chain which can be used as a heavy duty chain for bikes without gears if required.
Chain pitch - the distance between the rollers (the cylindrical parts that roll around the pins). Pretty much every bicycle chain will be 1/2", the only time you will need a different pitch is for very early track bikes that take a 3/16" chain (also known as 'inch pitch'), or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 1970s/80s.
Number of links - the total number of links in the chain. If you're unsure how many links you need, you can measure your old chain (or a bike with a similar setup to yours).
Sold Out £19.13
Campagnolo Record / Chorus / Athena crank bolts, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 32 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The crank bolts have been cleaned, checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.
Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.
£12.75 £15.00
Ofmega crank bolts, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 30 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank bolts!
The crank bolts have been cleaned, checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.
Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.
£97.75 £115.00
Shimano 105 hubs, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 636 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes (front/rear), your wheel rims need to match the hubs exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hubs measured at their widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. These measurements need to match the inside of your frame and fork’s dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the rear hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Sold Out £25.50
Shimano Dura-Ace down tube gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 37 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
The cable guide has been cleaned, checked and graded as mint condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£17.00 £20.00
Italmanubri (ITM) stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 424 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£72.25 £85.00
Shimano Ultegra cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 204 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£34.00 £40.00
3TTT Start drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 315 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£29.75 £35.00
Rogelli cycling shoes in size 9 Junior, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£97.75 £115.00
Campagnolo Euclid seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 391 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£10.63 £13.00
Sprint water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£19.13 £22.50
ZSC KMD Z410 chain, hailing from China and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 362 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£21.25 £25.00
Kalloy Uno stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 247 grams - incredibly lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£106.25 £125.00
Campagnolo Record front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 102 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£23.38 £28.00
Promax seatpost, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 320 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£34.00 £40.00
Sparrow freewheel, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 407 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£76.50 £90.00
Campagnolo Veloce cassette, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 299 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Sold Out £34.00
Vintage Inoxpran winter cap, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£38.25 £45.00
Ambrosio Campione Del Mondo drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 290 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£42.50 £50.00
Rito handlebars, in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£80.75 £95.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record chainring, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 105 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
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