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Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.

Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.

BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).

Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.

Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.

Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.

Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless cranks, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.

Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless cranks, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.

Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless cranks, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.

Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless cranks, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the bolts are designed to fit, this must be the same as the number of chainrings you are using.

Crank Type - Most cranks require the standard 5-bolt sets that consist of 5 bolts with backs that slot into the rear of the crank spider, there are also some less common cranks with 3 arms that require the 3-arm chainring bolts. Specialites T.A. 'Professionel 5 Vis' and Stronglight '49D' type cranks require special 50.4 BCD chainring bolts that are specific to these crank designs.

Mount Type - most bolts simply fix the chainring to the crank, but some cranks require bolts to fix one chainring to another.

Back Nut Length (Excluding Head) - the more chainrings your crank has the longer the bolts and nuts need to be. We exclude the head part from the measurement (the bit that often sits recessed in back of the chainring).

Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.

Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.

Clamp Opening - the minimum and maximum distance between the inside of the nut and bolt heads. The minimum is measured with the bolt tightened as much as possible (for hex head types this may mean the bolt end will stick quite far out of the nut). For the maximum opening we ensure 5-6 mm of thread remainis in the nut for a secure fixing.

Outer Diameter - the part that goes through the frame, most steel frames will take an 8 mm bolt whereas early lugged aluminium frames often have a larger hole that takes a 10 mm bolt diameter.

Bolt Fixing Type - Some binder bolts have knurled parts that grip the inside of the bolt hole, some have a small notch locator (a "key" that lines up with a cut-out in the frame if yours has one), others have tightening mechanism on both the nut and bolt to secure the seatpost in the frame.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.