£63.75 £75.00
Tron & Berthet Ideale 70 saddle, hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 520 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£55.25 £65.00
Selle Italia Sprint saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 382 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£72.25 £85.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production during the 1970s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 397 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel material and weighing in at 316 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Vetta Transverse AT saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1995. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 291 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
Velo Soffatti saddle, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 341 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
GES Soffatti Supra saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/plastic/steel material and weighing in at 318 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
Velo Soffatti Jet saddle, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 271 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£55.25 £65.00
Selle San Marco Concor Supercorsa saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 354 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£48.75 £65.00
GES Soffatti saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetiic/plastic/steel material and weighing in at 365 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
GES Soffatti saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetiic/plastic/steel material and weighing in at 370 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£82.50 £110.00
GES Huracan Crono saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 380 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£82.50 £110.00
GES Huracan Crono saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 373 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£82.50 £110.00
GES Huracan Crono saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 395 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£45.00 £60.00
GES Huracan saddle, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded classic saddle, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 317 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£123.75 £165.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 205 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£37.50 £50.00
Italmanubri (ITM) seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 332 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£41.25 £55.00
JPR (Jean Paul Routens) Extra Light seatpost, in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 258 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano Deore XT front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 118 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£120.00 £160.00
Shimano Dura-Ace AX front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano Deore XT front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 140 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£93.75 £125.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£112.50 £150.00
Shimano Dura-Ace front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£33.75 £45.00
Triplex Profesional front derailleur, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 105 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£26.25 £35.00
Triplex front derailleur, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 114 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£48.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Veloce front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 109 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£72.25 £85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 92 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The front derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£101.25 £135.00
Cinelli XA stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 317 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£55.25 £65.00
Cinelli Model 1A stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 307 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£93.75 £125.00
Regina Extra America 1992 freewheel, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 375 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£175.50 £195.00
Cinelli Oyster stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 318 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£90.00 £120.00
Cinelli 101 stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£56.25 £75.00
3TTT Status stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 292 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£56.25 £75.00
3TTT Status stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 273 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£41.25 £55.00
3TTT Quid stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£22.50 £30.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) The Tube stem, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 502 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£165.00 £220.00
Campagnolo Victory Strada rims, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 732 grams (for the pair) - incredibly lightweight for a pair of rims at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rims!
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Racer chain, from China in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 400 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£26.25 £35.00
IRD 790 chain, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 360 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£26.25 £35.00
Taya Extreme chain, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 403 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£21.25 £25.00
O.M.A.S. water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£15.00 £20.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£25.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 278 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£12.75 £15.00
Unbranded vintage bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 133 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£15.00 £20.00
Unbranded vintage bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 157 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£15.00 £20.00
Kalloy bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 88 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£123.75 £165.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 210 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£131.25 £175.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 205 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£37.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom-P3 seatpost, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 302 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
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