£18.75 £25.00
Le Tour front hub, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 169 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£22.50 £30.00
Maillard front hub, hailing from France and dating back to 1982. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 249 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 548 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£17.00 £20.00
Charger down tube gear cable guide, in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 24 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
The cable guide has been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£17.00 £20.00
Shimano 600 down tube gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 25 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
The cable guide has been cleaned, checked and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£8.50 £10.00
Unbranded vintage pump clip, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 24 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump clip
The pump clip has been cleaned, checked and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pump Securing - umbrella holders provide a base to help secure the pump at one end, traditionally clamped to the seat tube. Peg holders secure the pump by the holes at the ends, these are a bit more versatile as they can be used on top tubes as well, often in pairs if your pump has holes at both ends.
Frame Fixing Type - most pump holders are designed to clamp-on to steel frames. 25.4 mm is the standard top tube size, 28.6 mm (28.0 mm for French frames) is the standard for seat and down tubes. Some holders are available as adjustable clips that fit a large range of tube sizes.
£10.63 £13.00
AFA 1 pump clip, hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump clip
The pump clip has been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pump Securing - umbrella holders provide a base to help secure the pump at one end, traditionally clamped to the seat tube. Peg holders secure the pump by the holes at the ends, these are a bit more versatile as they can be used on top tubes as well, often in pairs if your pump has holes at both ends.
Frame Fixing Type - most pump holders are designed to clamp-on to steel frames. 25.4 mm is the standard top tube size, 28.6 mm (28.0 mm for French frames) is the standard for seat and down tubes. Some holders are available as adjustable clips that fit a large range of tube sizes.
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996. Made from steel and weighing in at 418 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£17.00 £20.00
Miche front skewer, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 82 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£14.88 £18.00
Shimano 600 front skewer, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 100 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£17.00 £20.00
Miche rear skewer, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 86 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£11.88 £12.50
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Zefal TX Switch bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£18.75 £25.00
Kalloy Uno ahead handlebar stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 213 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Dura-Ace caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£11.88 £12.50
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal / Super Apex caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano 105 SC / Deore LX caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£20.00
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 90 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano 105 SC left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 102 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These are compatible with Apex as well as Super Apex chainsets / bottom bracket axles.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Shimano Mountain LX / Exage bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 212 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Exage Mountain & Exage Trail also used these axles, so they are compatible with those too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£15.75 £17.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 60 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£22.50 £25.00
Tacx Uni water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 108 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.25 £22.50
Sprint water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 114 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.25 £22.50
Sprint water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 116 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£10.00
Suntour 5531 99 52 chainstay shift cable guide (or stop if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 8 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
The cable guide has been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Opening Diameter - this will normally be around 4 mm which is the modern standard for gear cable housing, although some older bikes used larger diameter 5 mm housing (the same as brake cable outer). If using an end ferrule, measure that rather than the cable outer diameter.
£16.63 £17.50
Plastiche Cassano bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 22 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£17.50
Milremo bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 18 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£12.50
Cateye Model-300 bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 27 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£15.00
Campagnolo Chorus / Euclid / Record Pista crank arm dust cap (or bolt cover if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 5 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These featured on multiple Campagnolo chainsets from the late 80s to the early 90s, including Chorus, Athena, Icarus & Record Pista.
The dust cap has been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless crank arms, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.
£20.00
Campagnolo Super Record / C-Record Pista crank arm dust cap (or bolt cover if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 6 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The dust cap has been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless crank arms, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage crankset dust caps (or bolt covers if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong dust covers!
The dust caps have been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Thread - 22 mm is the standard thread for almost all cotterless crank arms, the only exceptions are some Stronglight cranks made up until the early 1980s, and Specialites T.A. Campagnolo produced some self-extracting crank bolts with covers that had a reverse thread.
£20.00
Gipiemme crankset fixing bolts (or bottom bracket screws if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 34 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank bolts!
The crank bolts have been cleaned, checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.
Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.
£19.00 £20.00
Kalloy KL100 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 349 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£22.50
Simplex 3649 A seat post binder bolt (or seat pin clamp bolt if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 10 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost binder bolt!
The seatpost binder bolt's been cleaned, checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Clamp Opening - the minimum and maximum distance between the inside of the nut and bolt heads. The minimum is measured with the bolt tightened as much as possible (for hex head types this may mean the bolt end will stick quite far out of the nut). For the maximum opening we ensure 5-6 mm of thread remainis in the nut for a secure fixing.
Outer Diameter - the part that goes through the frame, most steel frames will take an 8 mm bolt whereas early lugged aluminium frames often have a larger hole that takes a 10 mm bolt diameter.
Bolt Fixing Type - some binder bolts have tightening mechanisms on both sides to secure the seatpost in the frame. Single sided bolts need something else to help; some have knurled parts that grip the inside of the bolt hole, others have a small notched 'key' locator that lines up with a cut-out in the frame (if you have one).
£20.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super/C-Record bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
As well as the various Record groups, these were also supplied with Gran Sport, Victory & Triomphe bottom brackets in the 1970s & 80s.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£20.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super/C-Record bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 11 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
As well as the various Record groups, these were also supplied with Gran Sport, Victory & Triomphe bottom brackets in the 1970s & 80s.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£22.50
Campagnolo C-Record / Chorus / Euclid bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These were also supplied with many other Campagnolo bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the 1990s, including Croce D'Aune, Athena, Centaur, Olympus & Xenon to name just a few.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£20.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super/C-Record bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£17.50
Brampton bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1930s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 24 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£10.00
T.D.C bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 21 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£17.50
Mavic 610 RD/URD bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from magnesium and weighing in at 18 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£15.00
Mavic 610 RD/URD bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from magnesium and weighing in at 18 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
The lockring's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£17.50
O.M.A.S. Big Sliding / Titanio BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB sleeve!
The sleeve's been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
£20.00
O.M.A.S. Big Sliding / Titanio BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB sleeve!
The sleeve's been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
£15.00
Sugino 75 / Super Mighty BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 2000s. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB sleeve!
The sleeve's been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
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