£20.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 48 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, this version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage features the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£23.75
Heta Gran Carrera bicycle pump, hailing from Spain and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£50.00
Silca Impero bicycle pump, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£32.50
Zefal Competition bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£93.75 £125.00
Campagnolo Centaur MTB seatpost, made in Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 417 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£67.50 £90.00
Regina Extra Oro BX freewheel, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 378 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
3TTT Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.00
3TTT 3 Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.00
3TTT 3 Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£13.00
Bluemels bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.50
Bluemels bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£7.50 £10.00
Co Union bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00
Ambrosio Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00
Ambrosio Bike Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.00
Modolo Kronos right downtube shifter, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic and weighing in at 18 grams - incredibly lightweight for a downtube shifter at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano Deore LX rear mech (or derailleur, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 288 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£23.75 £25.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 47 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, this version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage features the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£55.25 £65.00
Suntour GPX / Radius freewheel, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£10.63 £13.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£10.63 £13.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£17.50
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£33.25 £35.00
Campagnolo Xenon front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 101 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£46.75 £55.00
Ritchey TR3 Comp rear hub, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 472 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your frame's dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
£38.25 £45.00
Wolber LX tyres, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 702 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£26.25 £35.00
WTB Velociraptor tyre, hailing from the United States and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 760 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.
OVERVIEW
Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1990s & 2000s
Country - American
Material - Rubber
Weight - 760 g
Stock Code - D-TY-R53C
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - 26 x 2.1"
Bike Type - MTB
ISO Diameter - 559 mm (26")
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£65.00
Suntour GPX / Radius freewheel, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 421 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£23.75 £25.00
Suntour WL-100 down tube gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 24 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£65.00
Campagnolo Record chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 92 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£54.00 £60.00
Campagnolo Record chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 90 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
This model (RE552) is marked as 52 x 42, originally intended to be used with a 42 tooth inner chaining.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£49.50 £55.00
Campagnolo Veloce chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 49 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£26.25 £35.00
Suntour Cyclone right downtube shifter, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 82 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifter!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£100.00
Lyotard 36 pedals, hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1960s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 484 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£40.38 £48.00
Selle Italia Carrera saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel and weighing in at 428 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£40.50 £45.00
Tiger freewheel, hailing from the United Kingdom and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 299 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£45.00
Suntour XCD front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1990 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 116 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£76.50 £85.00
3TTT Forma SL ErgoPower Due drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 265 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£145.00
Campagnolo Super Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 607 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£337.50 £450.00
Lexpres was a small cycle shop in Antwerp, Belgium that built (or had built for them) bikes bearing their name in the late 1970s and early 1980s. There are very few examples of their bikes still in circulation, but it seems that track bikes were a speciality.
It is built from lightweight but strong Ishiwata 022 tubing with Shimano horizontal dropouts and Bocama lugs, and is not drilled for a brake. The frame is stamped '77' on the bottom bracket shell which given the frame details suggest this could well be the year of manufacture. With it's original paintwork and transfers this classic frameset is ready to be built up and put back to work on the boards.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 28 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 48.5 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 52 cm
Head Tube - 89 mm
Chainstay Length - 41 cm
Wheelbase - 95 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
£40.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 95 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£30.00
Campagnolo C-Record jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 10 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These work with all Campagnolo 7/8 speed rear derailleurs from the same era, including Croce D'Aune, Chorus, Athena etc.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the jockey wheels!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£63.00 £70.00
Sugino MP chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 729 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
£14.88 £18.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plasttic and weighing in at 46 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
This is the final version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mount, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£12.75 £15.00
Radsport Fink saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.75 £15.00
Radsport Fink saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.63 £28.00
Shimano Deore front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 222 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£30.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 116 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£29.75 £35.00
Rogelli cycling shoes in size 9 Junior, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£52.50 £70.00
Unbranded cycling shoes in size EU 40, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
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