£14.25 £15.00
Cateye Model-300 bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 27 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£14.25 £15.00
Cateye Model-300 bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 29 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£14.25 £15.00
O.G.K. bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 15 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£11.88 £12.50
O.G.K. bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 15 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£14.25 £15.00
GEM bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1970s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 16 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£9.50 £10.00
Unbranded vintage bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 4 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£9.50 £10.00
SABA bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£11.88 £12.50
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£23.75 £25.00
CST Super HP tyres, hailing from China and in production during the 1980s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 690 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£23.75 £25.00
Schwalbe Black Jack tyres, hailing from Germany. Made from rubber and weighing in at 1360 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your modern bike correct, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£33.25 £35.00
Panaracer Pasela tyres, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 560 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£33.25 £35.00
Kenda K6302 tyres, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1980s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 665 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£14.25 £15.00
Zefal TX Switch bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo C-Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The first C-Record bottom brackets used 3/16” bearings like the earlier Super Record titanium models. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Dura-Ace caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£11.88 £12.50
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal / Super Apex caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano 105 SC / Deore LX caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record fixed bottom bracket cup, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 47 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cup!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a cup, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Thread Direction - fixed cups go on the right (drive side), and the thread direction you need depends on your frame's threading as mentioned above.
£61.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 104 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These Nuovo Record cups share the same design as the later Croce D'Aune ones, so they can be used interchangeably.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cups!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£28.50 £30.00
Shimano Deore XT left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 105 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 78 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano 105 SC left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 102 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These are compatible with Apex as well as Super Apex chainsets / bottom bracket axles.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Shimano Mountain LX / Exage bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 212 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Exage Mountain & Exage Trail also used these axles, so they are compatible with those too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 177 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
Race Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1980s & 1990s
Country - Japanese
Material - Steel
Weight - 177 g
Stock Code - D-G3-BB-AS24V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - Square Taper
Axle Markings - 70-T (D-5NL)
Axle Length (D) - 122.5 mm
Axle Centre (B) - 53 mm
Axle Drive Side (C) - 37 mm
Axle Non-Drive Side (A) - 34.5 mm
Shell Width - 70 mm
NB: Check the help section to see how we take these measurements.
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 149 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 148 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The very first Dura-Ace axles were stamped '333' with a date code that is specific to early Dura-Ace. The axles came with the GB-100 chainset but carried their own part number (137 0100), the specification remained the same when the FC-7110 chainset was introduced, so they are compatible with both models.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£38.00 £40.00
Campagnolo Centaur bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 167 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
This axle is also compatible with other Campagnolo mountain bike chainsets from the same era, such as Euclid, Olympus, Icarus & Contax.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£28.50 £30.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Apex / Super Custom bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 215 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
This axle is also compatible with other SR chainsets from the same era, including Aerox, CR, CX & Silstar.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£61.75 £65.00
Regina Extra CX-S chain, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 300 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
The chain's been examined for wear, thoroughly cleaned and degreased, then freshly lubricated and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy. Chain stretch for this one comes in at 1/64” (around 15% worn), measured by hand as this is the most accurate method, and although it’s impossible to be exact it gives a good indication of how much use a chain has had.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
Sold Out £38.00
Simplex SJ right downtube shifter, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 31 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifter!
The shifter's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£166.25 £175.00
Campagnolo Super Record drop bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 232 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£28.50 £30.00
Ritchey Comp seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 261 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The seat post has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£16.63 £17.50
Plastiche Cassano bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 22 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£66.50 £70.00
3TTT Record 84 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 281 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£28.50 £30.00
3TTT Record 84 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1990. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£19.00 £20.00
Kalloy KL100 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 349 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£118.75 £125.00
3TTT Record Strada handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 263 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£137.75 £145.00
3TTT Record Strada handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 250 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£38.00 £40.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1984. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 349 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£71.25 £75.00
Cinelli Model 1A handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£118.75 £125.00
Shimano Dura-Ace headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 132 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard. Headclip headsets were made to fit fork steerers with 1" or the reduced 31/32" size steerers, as well as 1 1/8" versions for tandems.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£30.88 £32.50
Campagnolo Record dropout adjuster set (or alignment adjusting screws if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong dropout adjusters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Size - this is almost always 3.0 x 0.5 mm, with just one exception found on Huret dropouts where the thread size required is 3.0 x 0.6 mm. These can be tapped to accept standard dropouts if required.
Total Length - from end to end, including the end nut and screw head.
£104.50 £110.00
Campagnolo Record brake calipers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 413 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The brakes have been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim in a straight line. Your measurement must be well within the range of the caliper's given brake drop to allow the brakes to have good contact with the rim's braking surface.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£61.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Record / Chorus cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 279 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Introduced in 1994 (the final year of the C-Record era) and featuring the Exa-Drive spline pattern. The sprockets can be used on the earlier hubs with equally spaced notches on the freehub body.
The cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)'s been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)s wear with chains, so used cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)s can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer).OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£47.50 £50.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 41 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
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