£72.25 £85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 92 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The front derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£34.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage seatpost, most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 293 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£55.25 £65.00
Selle San Marco Concor Supercorsa saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 354 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Vetta Transverse AT saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1995. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 291 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£72.25 £85.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production during the 1970s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 397 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£55.25 £65.00
Selle Italia Sprint saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 382 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £75.00
Tron & Berthet Ideale 70 saddle, hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 520 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Selle San Marco GLR saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic/steel material and weighing in at 558 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£55.25 £65.00
Selle Royal saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 405 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £75.00
Selle Bassano Vuelta saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 337 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£72.25 £85.00
Selle San Marco GI-LUX S.L saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/aluminium material and weighing in at 252 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£46.75 £55.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production from the 1940s to the 1960s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 620 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£34.00 £40.00
Vintage Inoxpran winter cap, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Colnago - Teugels - Just Fit cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Lampre - NGC cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Nippo - Vini Fantini cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Lotto - Predictor cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Vintage cycling cap, likely made in the 70s/80s/90s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cap!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Lotto - Mobistar cycling cap, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£42.50 £50.00
3TTT Competizione drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 325 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£34.00 £40.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom Road Champion drop handlebars, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£93.50 £110.00
3TTT Sport handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 255 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£29.75 £35.00
Shimano 600 EX / Deore XT chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 32 grams - pretty lightweight for an inner chainring at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£34.00 £40.00
Campagnolo Record chainring, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 43 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£46.75 £55.00
Eddy Merckx Podio pedals, hailing from Belgium and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 458 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cleat System - the cleat the pedals were designed to fit. The brand of cleats doesn't have to match, as long as they were designed for the same system.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£42.50 £50.00
Kore Lite 3 ahead handlebar stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 224 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£12.75 £15.00
3TTT Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£29.75 £50.00
Suntour New Winner freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1984. Made from steel and weighing in at 328 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£29.75 £35.00
Suntour Winner freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1991. Made from steel and weighing in at 328 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£34.00 £40.00
Maillard 700 Course freewheel, hailing from France and dating back to 1986. Made from steel and weighing in at 465 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£23.38 £27.50
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£21.25 £25.00
Miche wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
WTB Velociraptor tyre, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from rubber and weighing in at 665 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£34.00 £40.00
Panaracer Dart Classic tyre, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from rubber and weighing in at 665 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£38.25 £45.00
ITM handlebar stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 329 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£38.25 £45.00
Iscaselle saddle (or seat if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic/steel material and weighing in at 290 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£46.75 £55.00
Shimano 105 left (non-drive side) crank arm, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 255 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£21.25 £25.00
Velox Top Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Silva Splash bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
3TTT Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Cinelli Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Wheeler musette (or feed bag if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£80.75 £95.00
Modolo wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£34.00 £40.00
Campagnolo wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Campagnolo wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Rigida wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£14.88 £18.00
Roto triangle frame bag, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage bikes, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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