£30.00 £40.00
Gallet saddle, hailing from France and in production from the 1940s to the 1950s. Made from synthetic/steel and weighing in at 956 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
Selle Italia Turbo Matic 2 saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1996. Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 307 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
Cinelli Unicanitor saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from leather/plastic/steel and weighing in at 328 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 600 freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 266 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£41.25 £55.00
Regina Corsa freewheel, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1980. Made from steel and weighing in at 298 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£41.25 £55.00
Regina Corsa freewheel, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1970. Made from steel and weighing in at 406 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£26.25 £35.00
Specialites T.A. Team Fagor / MBK water bottle, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong water bottle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£33.75 £45.00
Thun crank/chainset, hailing from Germany and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 946 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the thread type to match that of the chainset, this must match and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage crank/chainset, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 876 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the thread type to match that of the chainset, this must match and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£37.50 £50.00
Atom front wheel built with a Rigida rim, the hub hailing from France and dating back to 1979. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 1018 g. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been fully serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Rim Size - this should match the size your bike is designed to fit. Standard/full size tubulars only come in one wheel size, these are often referred to as 28" or 700c (sometimes even 27"). These are all the same size, the next size down is 26", so any rim larger than 26" will be a standard/full size tubular.
Bike Type - this is really just a guide, as technically any wheel can be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible. Within reason of course - we wouldn't recommend riding a skinny tubular road wheel down a mountain!
Drilling - the number of spokes in the wheel.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£33.75 £45.00
Italmanubri (ITM) stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 329 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1970s & 1980s
Country - Italian
Material - Aluminium
Weight - 329 g
Stock Code - D-ST155V
NB - Marked as '90' extension but we measure 95 mm.
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - 95 mm
Quill Size - 1"
Steerer Size (ID) - 22.2 mm (Standard)
Total Shaft Height - 160 mm
Clamp Size - 25.4 mm
*See help section.
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£37.50 £50.00
Sturmey Archer stem, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 282 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£41.25 £55.00
Suntour Road VX downtube shifters, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 81 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£41.25 £55.00
Gazelle Vuelta tyre, hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber and weighing in at 310 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyre!
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£37.50 £50.00
Hutchinson Corsa Senior tubular/sprint tyre, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from rubber/latex and weighing in at 315 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyre!
NB: Tubular tyres with latex tubes lose air over the course of a few days so will need re-inflating regularly. If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tubular Wheel Size - standard/full size tubulars only come in one wheel size, these are often referred to as 28" or 700c (sometimes even 27"). These are all the same size, the next size down is 26", so any wheel larger than 26" will take a standard/full size tubular.
Width - the width of the tyre as stated by the manufacturer (if present), if there are no markings we measure at the widest point when fully inflated. Depending on the manufacturer, the stated width can differ slightly from the actual width when measured, although usually this only minimal.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread whereas cyclocross tyres will be wider with a more pronounced tread pattern, and MTB tyres even more so.
Casing - the main structure of the tyre that surrounds the inner tube and provides the base for the rubber tread. Most tubulars have cotton casings but other materials are used such as nylon, kevlar or silk. We can’t always provide this information as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the casing, if known. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi.
Valve Core - some valve cores are removable allowing you to add sealant or valve extenders, if the valve cores are fixed this is not possible.
£37.50 £50.00
Michelin Lithion 2 folding tyres, hailing from France and in production during the 2000s. Made from rubber/kevlar and weighing in at 512 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£45.00 £60.00
CST Ouster folding tyres, hailing from China and in production during the 2000s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 1345 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£45.00 £60.00
CST Camber folding tyres, hailing from China and in production during the 2000s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 1430 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£37.50 £50.00
Hawk tyres, in production during the 2000s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 1200 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£41.25 £55.00
Jae Chen Custom Road Champion drop handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 342 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£30.00 £40.00
Deda Elementi Big Piega drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£33.75 £45.00
Ritchey drop handlebars, hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded classic handlebars, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 410 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano BB-5500 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 303 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£37.50 £50.00
Rossino cycling shoes in size 2, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£37.50 £50.00
Piri cycling shoes in size EU 39, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Unbranded cycling shoes in size EU 40, hailing from French and likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Gaerne cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£41.25 £55.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Sport cycling shoes in size EU 40.5, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£41.25 £55.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Specialized 5500 cycling shoes in size EU 39, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Specialized 5500 cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 38.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 37.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
A. Hartog cycling shoes in size EU 35, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£37.50 £50.00
Agu Sport cycling shoes in size EU 32, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Rogelli cycling shoes in size 5, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£26.25 £35.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£33.75 £45.00
Sachs-Huret AV69 1D front derailleur, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 113 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£37.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom-P3 seatpost, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 302 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£26.25 £35.00
Taya Extreme chain, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 403 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£26.25 £35.00
IRD 790 chain, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 360 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£41.25 £55.00
3TTT Quid stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£48.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Veloce front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 109 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
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