£15.00 £20.00
Unbranded vintage left crank arm, most likely in production from the 1930s to the 1950s. Made from steel and weighing in at 254 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£18.75 £25.00
Unbranded vintage left crank arm, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 303 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£13.13 £18.00
Unbranded vintage left crank arm, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 270 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£18.75 £25.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Apex left crank arm, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1978. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 171 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage right crank arm/spider, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 314 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the crank was designed to fit. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter), and this needs to match the BCD of your chainring(s). To calculate this, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano 600 AX right crank arm/spider, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 278 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the crank was designed to fit. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter), and this needs to match the BCD of your chainring(s). To calculate this, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£18.75 £25.00
Miche Team right crank arm/spider, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 295 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the crank was designed to fit. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter), and this needs to match the BCD of your chainring(s). To calculate this, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage right crank/chainring set, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 612 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the crank. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£15.00 £20.00
Sulky brake lever, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 67 grams - incredibly lightweight for a brake lever at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake lever!
The brake lever has been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£15.00 £20.00
Altenburger brake lever, hailing from Germany and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 82 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake lever at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake lever!
The brake lever has been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£18.75 £25.00
Weinmann brake lever, hailing from Switzerland and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 95 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake lever at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake lever!
The brake lever has been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£15.00 £20.00
Saccon brake lever, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 112 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The brake lever has been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£18.75 £25.00
Strongy rear hub, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 224 grams - incredibly lightweight for a rear hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your frame's dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
£18.75 £25.00
Le Tour front hub, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 169 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£22.50 £30.00
Maillard front hub, hailing from France and dating back to 1982. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 249 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 548 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996. Made from steel and weighing in at 418 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£22.50 £30.00
Specialites T.A. Team Fagor Electromenager water bottle, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong water bottle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano Light Action brake caliper, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 168 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake caliper at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - this determines whether the brake is designed to be used on the front or rear wheel of the bike.
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£18.75 £25.00
Polygon 590 SQ brake caliper, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 172 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake caliper at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - this determines whether the brake is designed to be used on the front or rear wheel of the bike.
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£15.00 £20.00
Zoom MTB-110PP handlebars, hailing from China and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 415 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£18.75 £25.00
Freeway handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 420 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£22.50 £30.00
FAG Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Switzerland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£20.63 £28.00
Shimano Deore front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 235 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£22.50 £30.00
Shimano 105 front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 211 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£24.38 £33.00
Shimano Nexave front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 161 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£22.50 £30.00
Shimano Nexave front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 164 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£15.00 £20.00
Kalloy bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 88 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£15.00 £20.00
Unbranded vintage bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 157 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£7.50 £10.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£7.50 £10.00
Simpla Alu-Star water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from Poland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£15.00 £20.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£18.75 £25.00
Racer chain, from China in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 400 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£22.50 £30.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) The Tube stem, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 502 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£18.75 £25.00
Claud Butler Cr-Mo Tube stem, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 440 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£18.75 £25.00
Kalloy KL80 stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 307 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded classic saddle, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 317 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £30.00
Iscaselle Isca Soft saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel material and weighing in at 299 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00 £20.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£15.00 £20.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£15.00 £20.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£18.75 £25.00
Modolo O-Bone handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 181 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£15.00 £20.00
Rito ahead handlebar stem, in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 186 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£15.00 £20.00
Kalloy ahead handlebar stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 182 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£18.75 £25.00
Kalloy Uno ahead handlebar stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 213 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£15.00 £20.00
GES Fluor Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Spain and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00 £20.00
Iscaselle Dainy bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Georges Sorel bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£11.25 £15.00
Georges Sorel bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Ciclolinea Pelten Graphic bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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