£65.00
Vintage long sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£38.00 £40.00
Saccon Black brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 198 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Sold Out £33.75
Saccon Silver brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 191 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£18.00 £20.00
Sachs down tube gear cable guide, hailing from Germany and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 25 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£33.75 £45.00
Sachs-Huret AV69 1D front derailleur, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 113 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£40.50 £45.00
Sachs-Huret Eco rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 213 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£40.00
Sachs-Huret Eco rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 194 grams - incredibly lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£65.00
Sachs-Maillard Normandy freewheel, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£28.50 £30.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Apex / Super Custom bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 215 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
This axle is also compatible with other SR chainsets from the same era, including Aerox, CR, CX & Silstar.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£35.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Apex-5 chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 108 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£35.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 68 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£37.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom-P3 seatpost, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 302 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£33.75 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) stem, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1970s & 1980s
Country - Japanese
Material - Aluminium
Weight - 286 g
Stock Code - D-ST46V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length - 60 mm
Quill Size - 1"
Steerer Size (ID) - 22.2 mm (Standard)
Shaft Height - 150 mm
Clamp Size - 26.0 mm
£36.00 £40.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Roundtech chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 154 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£40.50 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£45.00 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 104 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£56.25 £75.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 270 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£11.88 £12.50
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal / Super Apex caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£38.25 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal LA-5 chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£42.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal Super Light chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 56 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard inner chain width for 5 to 8 speed, above that requires a slightly narrower 11/128” chain. 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 54 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard inner chain width for 5 to 8 speed, above that requires a slightly narrower 11/128” chain. 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£38.25 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Silstar 350 pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 448 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£48.75 £65.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) SR-FX bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 325 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£14.25 £15.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£34.00 £40.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex-5 chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 124 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£38.25 £45.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex-5 chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 125 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£17.00 £20.00
Vintage Schoenmakers Benzine-LPG Eindhoven cycling cap, hailing from The Netherlands and likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cap!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£17.00 £20.00
Vintage Schoenmakers Benzine-LPG Eindhoven cycling cap, hailing from The Netherlands and likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cap!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£36.00 £40.00
Scott/Mathauser 'M' set of 4 replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 32 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - most brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£49.50 £55.00
Sedis Sedisport chain, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£15.00
Selev Extra Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£85.00
Selle San Marco GLR saddle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel material and weighing in at 555 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur / mech, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 101 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£40.50 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 103 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano 105 SC / Deore LX caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£28.50 £30.00
Shimano 105 cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£22.50
Shimano 600 down tube gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 27 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Number of Cables - the number of cables the guide is designed to accept.
Guide Type - some setups require specific guides for the derailleurs to operate correctly. Tunnels simply act as a channel to guide the cable whereas stops create an end point for the cable housing, giving the cable the leverage it needs. Bar control stops are required when using handlebar shifters if your frame doesn't have any guides or braze-ons.
Tube Diameter - most steel (and early lugged aluminium) frames will have a down tube of 28.0 mm - 28.6 mm, this was standard for a long time but there are 'oversized' steel and aluminium tubes that have a diameter of 31.8, 34.9 and even 38.1 mm.
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano 600 EX downtube shifters, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 52 grams - pretty lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano 600EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 142 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano 600EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 141 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£40.00
Shimano Altus ST stem shifters, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 91 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Crane jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 39 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the jockey wheels!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£35.00
Shimano Deore XT chainring, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1985 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 35 grams - pretty lightweight for an inner chainring at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
Condition - New Old Stock*
Model ID - M730
Production Era - 1980s & 1990s
Country - Japanese
Material - Aluminium
Weight - 35 g
Stock Code - D-CRI5V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - 28
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - 43.5 mm
BCD - 74 BCD
Chainset Type - Triple
Bolt Count - 5-Bolt
Chain Width - 3/32"
Intended Speed - 5 Speed, 6 Speed, 7 Speed
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Dura-Ace caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£198.75 £265.00
Shimano Dura-Ace hubs, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 544 grams - pretty lightweight for a pair of hubs at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hubs!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes (front/rear), your wheel rims need to match the hubs exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hubs measured at their widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. These measurements need to match the inside of your frame and fork’s dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the rear hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£9.50 £10.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 chain stay gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 10 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Opening Diameter - this will normally be around 4 mm which is the modern standard for gear cable housing, although some older bikes used larger diameter 5 mm housing (the same as brake cable outer). If using an end ferrule, measure that rather than the cable outer diameter.
£10.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 chain stay gear cable guide, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 10 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable guide!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Opening Diameter - this will normally be around 4 mm which is the modern standard for gear cable housing, although some older bikes used larger diameter 5 mm housing (the same as brake cable outer). If using an end ferrule, measure that rather than the cable outer diameter.
£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 148 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The very first Dura-Ace axles were stamped '333' with a date code that is specific to early Dura-Ace. The axles came with the GB-100 chainset but carried their own part number (137 0100), the specification remained the same when the FC-7110 chainset was introduced, so they are compatible with both models.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

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