£23.75 £25.00
Campagnolo Record jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 32 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These work with all Campagnolo 8 speed rear derailleurs from the same era, including C-Record, Croce D'Aune, Chorus, Athena etc.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£20.00
Campagnolo Xenon front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 71 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£20.00
Classic Carrera - Longoni Sport cycling cap, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
Sold Out £21.38
Casiraghi Mountain Bike Fun cable set (outer casing and inner wires), in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£22.50
Casiraghi cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of original NOS Casiraghi Industries housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£22.50 £30.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
Celo-Cinta Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.00
Classic Chocolade Jacques - Topsport Vlaanderen - Merckx cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.63 £28.00
Christophe 33 / 336 toe clips, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 112 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£12.38 £17.00
Christophe 43 toe clips, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic and weighing in at 71 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£22.50 £30.00
Christophe 47 M toe clips, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 115 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£23.38 £27.50
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£7.50 £10.00
Ciclolinea bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£24.75 £27.50
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£21.25 £25.00
Ciclolinea headband (or sweat band if you prefer), likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headband!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
£18.75 £25.00
Ciclolinea Pelten Graphic bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Cinelli Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00
Classic 3Action musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £25.00
Unbranded classic seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), most likely in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 288 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£7.50
Unbranded classic water bottle (or bidon, or borraccia...), most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Cage Fit - almost all bottle cages have a standard opening size (between 70 -75 mm), the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£18.00 £20.00
Unbranded classic chainstay protector, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £30.00
Unbranded classic saddle, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 317 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.75 £15.00
Classic W Cup musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Claud Butler Cr-Mo Tube stem, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 440 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£7.50 £10.00
Co Union bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Cobra bottle cage, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Colnago - Teugels - Just Fit cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£18.75
Classic Credit Agricole cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic CSF Group - Navigare- Colnago cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£22.50 £30.00
DPS Celo-Nastro Professionale bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00
Ebon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Supplied as shown in the photos, enough tape to cover a set of drop bars. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar grip!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£7.65 £8.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£14.25 £15.00
Ekla set of 2 inner cables (or wires if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length (F/R) - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.00
Elite New 66 water bottle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£11.25 £15.00
Elite Peugeot-Look Team water bottle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£20.00
Elite Saeco water bottle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too of course!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Elvedes inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£7.65 £8.50
Elvedes inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£22.50 £30.00
FAG Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Switzerland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£14.50
Classic Fietsen Gary cycling cap, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
Sold Out £18.75
Freeway handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 420 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£23.75
Freeway handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 420 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
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