Pre-1987 (Eroica Compliant)

Rim Size - this should match the size your bike frame is designed to fit. Standard/full size tubulars only come in one wheel size, these are often referred to as 28" or 700c (sometimes even 27"). These are all the same size, the next size down is 26", so any rims larger than 26" will be standard/full size tubulars.

Bike Type - this is really just a guide, as technically any wheels can be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible. Within reason of course - we wouldn't recommend riding a set of skinny tubular road wheels down a mountain!

Drilling (F/R) - the number of spokes in each wheel (front/rear).

Spacing (O.L.D.) (F/R) - the width of the hubs measured at their widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. These measurements need to match the inside of your frame and fork’s dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.

Speed - the number of cogs the rear hub was designed to be used with.

Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.

Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom., otherwise you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as seatpost diameters go up in 0.2 mm increments.

Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.