Sold Out £85.50
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 205 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seat post has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£15.00
Bluemels bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 11 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
£15.00
Shimano cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£20.00
Shimano cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£7.65 £8.50
Elvedes inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.50
Unbranded vintage inner cable (or wire if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.50
Unbranded vintage inner cable (or wire if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
Sold Out £33.25
Dia-Compe Gran Compe set of 4 rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Weighing in at 102 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
The pads have been checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon ones require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£17.50
Shimano Deore XT rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 70 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 2 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£75.00
Campagnolo C-Record toe clips (or pedal cages if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 78 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Fit - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£85.00
Campagnolo Super Record toe clips (or pedal cages if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 63 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Fit - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£25.00
Silva Splash bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£23.75 £25.00
Silva Splash bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.75 £15.00
Classic W Cup musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£17.50
Shimano Deore front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 144 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£11.25 £12.50
Freeway triangle frame bag, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.75 £15.00
Radsport Fink saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£12.75 £15.00
Radsport Fink saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£15.00
Unbranded vintage saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage bikes, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle bag!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£19.13 £23.00
Outback 1047 saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £75.00
Shimano Deore II flat bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 267 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.
£58.50 £65.00
Shimano Z Series flat bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 267 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.
£12.75 £15.00
Zefal 43 toe clips (or pedal cages if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic and weighing in at 79 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Fit - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
Sold Out £13.50
Roto chainstay protector (or frame guard if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£9.00 £10.00
Minoura Chain Plate chainstay protector, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.00 £20.00
Unbranded classic chainstay protector, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal chainring (or chainwheel if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 54 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard inner chain width for 5 to 8 speed, above that requires a slightly narrower 11/128” chain. 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£14.88 £18.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plasttic and weighing in at 46 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
This is the final version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mount, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£30.00
Specialites T.A. Sierra water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 116 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£35.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 92 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£31.50 £35.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 100 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, these versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage feature the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£40.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 95 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£46.75 £55.00
Ritchey Aero OCR Pro wheel rim, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 440 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one rim, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket) - pretty lightweight for a rim at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
'Off centre rim technology' features an assymetric spoke pattern that requires less dishing, allowing the rear wheel on a geared bike to be built with a more balanced tension than a traditional rim. Technically these could be used on the front but they are designed for rear use.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes.
Rim Size - the sizing given by the manufacturer, these can be confusing so we also give the ISO diameter too for clarification.
ISO Diameter - the diameter of the rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
Valve Type - presta valves are the thin ones and Schrader are the fatter ones. Schrader valve holes will also accept the older Dunlop/Woods type valves.
Rim Width (OD) - the width of the rim, measured from the outside of one wall to the other.
Rim Height - the overall height of the rim, measured to the highest point of the rim’s profile.
Sold Out £55.25
Silca Impero bicycle pump, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£20.00
Zefal SP 1 bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£51.00 £60.00
Silca Impero bicycle pump, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pump!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
Pump Mount Type - 'peg fit' pumps require pump pegs or 'umbrella' clips to fit to the frame, 'frame fit 'pumps are designed with curved ends to mount between two tubes (although these often have holes for pegs too). If mounting directly you'll need the correct length to fit your frame, or a clip/peg to hold one end.
Mount Location - frame fit pumps usually mount to the seat tube with the ends compressed between the top and down tube, they can however be mounted on other tubes as long as there's something supporting the handle end. Some head tubes have a little nipple or a small enough gap for under top tube mounting (this can be replcated with a simple strap or cable tie), and of course pump pegs or clips can be fitted anywhere!
Length (Min-Max) - the length of the pump fully compressed and uncompressed, measured at the points of support. The space you to intend to mount the pump should be within 1 cm of the minimum or maximum length to allow the pump to be securely mounted and dismounted.
£60.00
Continental Ultra Sport II folding tyres, hailing from Germany and in production during the 2010s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 663 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£35.00
Vittoria Rubino Pro folding tyres, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2010s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 480 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£30.00
Shimano Dura-Ace front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 91 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£20.00
Zefal TX Mini bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£115.00
Shimano Deore XT shift/brake levers, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£125.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 521 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£145.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from plastic/aluminium and weighing in at 532 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£30.00
Silva Flag bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£10.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 49 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, this version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage features the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£12.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 58 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£15.00
Reynolds cap, likely made in the 2010s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
SUBSCRIBE TO GET THE FIRST SCOOP
Exclusive content, new products, subscriber only promotions. Delivered to your inbox by tiny cyclists, every few weeks.
Don't worry, you can unsubscribe at any time.
PEDAL PEDLAR
T: 02036758003 // E: info@pedalpedlar.co.uk
© 2026 Pedal Pedlar.
Ecommerce Software by Shopify