£12.75 £15.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 122 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£19.13 £23.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 90 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£19.13 £23.00
Unbranded vintage water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 130 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£22.50 £25.00
Emmepi water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 44 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£9.00 £10.00
Minoura water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 49 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£19.13 £23.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 47 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
This is the final version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mount, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£14.88 £18.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plasttic and weighing in at 46 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
This is the final version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mount, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£18.00 £20.00
Unbranded classic chainstay protector, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£9.00 £10.00
Minoura Chain Plate chainstay protector, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£13.50 £15.00
Roto chainstay protector (or frame guard if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£13.50 £15.00
Roto chainstay protector (or frame guard if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £25.00
Tektro flat bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 192 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.
£21.25 £25.00
Tektro 361A flat bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 179 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.
£19.13 £23.00
Outback 1047 saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Zefal Kola saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 2000s. An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£17.00 £20.00
Radsport Fink saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£19.00 £20.00
Outback 1025 saddle bag (or seat pack if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic bikes, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£14.88 £18.00
Roto triangle frame bag, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage bikes, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Rigida wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Miche wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £25.00
Campagnolo wheel bag (or carrier if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £25.00
Classic Rabobank musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£20.25 £23.00
Santini Maglificio Sportivo musette (or feed bag if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.00 £20.00
Classic Rabobank 'Ronde van Midden Nederland' musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.00 £20.00
Classic Tacconi Sport / Carrera / Santini musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Wheeler musette (or feed bag if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Cinelli Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
3TTT Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Silva Splash bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.25 £25.00
Velox Top Ribbon bar tape (or grip, or wrap if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£19.00 £20.00
Scott/Mathauser 'C' replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Weighing in at 14 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 2 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
The pad inserts have been checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£19.00 £20.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Croce d'Aune replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Weighing in at 15 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 2 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The pad inserts have been checked and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Sante rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Weighing in at 44 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 2 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The pads have been checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£19.00 £20.00
Dia-Compe rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Weighing in at 38 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 2 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
The pads have been checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£7.65 £8.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Elvedes inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£9.00 £10.00
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£7.65 £8.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£11.25 £12.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.25 £22.50
Alva inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.25 £22.50
Unbranded vintage inner cable (or wire if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£13.50 £15.00
Triplex set of 2 inner cables (or wires if you prefer), hailing from Spain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length (F/R) - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£13.50 £15.00
Campagnolo C-Record cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£14.25 £15.00
Unbranded vintage bar end plugs (or caps, or stoppers if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 10 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bar plugs!
The plugs have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.
Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.
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