£55.25 £65.00
Cinelli Model 1A stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 292 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£59.50 £70.00
Cinelli XA stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 311 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£72.25 £85.00
3TTT Record Strada stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 284 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£55.25 £65.00
3TTT Record stem, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1989. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 250 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.
OVERVIEW
Condition - Very Good
Model ID - AR
Production Era - 1980s & 1990s
Country - Italian
Material - Aluminium
Weight - 250 g
Stock Code - U-ST137V
NB - Marked as '100' extension but we measure 95 mm.
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - 95 mm
Quill Size - 1"
Steerer Size (ID) - 22.2 mm (Standard)
Total Shaft Height - 137 mm
Clamp Size - 26.0 mm
*See help section.
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£55.25 £65.00
Dia-Compe Aero Gran Compe brake levers, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 232 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£63.75 £75.00
Campagnolo Gran Sport 2nd Gen brake calipers, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 363 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brakes!
The brakes have been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim in a straight line. Your measurement must be well within the range of the caliper's given brake drop to allow the brakes to have good contact with the rim's braking surface.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£55.25 £65.00
Mafac Course brake levers, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 233 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£55.25 £65.00
Universal Model 61 brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 192 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£72.25 £85.00
Universal Model 61 brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel/rubber and weighing in at 221 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£59.50 £70.00
Simplex Tourist 303 rear mech (or derailleur, if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1950s. Made from steel and weighing in at 214 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£51.00 £60.00
Simplex Prestige rear mech (or derailleur, if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1960s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 242 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£63.75 £85.00
Ofmega Super Competizione front wheel built with a Mavic rim, the hub hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 796 g - incredibly lightweight for a front wheel at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel’s been serviced, excess glue residue removed and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Rim Size - this should match the size your bike is designed to fit. Standard/full size tubulars only come in one wheel size, these are often referred to as 28" or 700c (sometimes even 27"). These are all the same size, the next size down is 26", so any rim larger than 26" will be a standard/full size tubular.
Bike Type - this is really just a guide, as technically any wheel can be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible. Within reason of course - we wouldn't recommend riding a skinny tubular road wheel down a mountain!
Drilling - the number of spokes in the wheel.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£97.75 £115.00
Williams C34 crank/chainset, hailing from Great Britain and dating back to 1958. Made from steel and weighing in at 939 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the thread type to match that of the chainset, this must match and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£82.50 £110.00
Miche Primato Pistard hubs, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 525 grams - pretty lightweight for a pair of hubs at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes (front/rear), your wheel rims need to match the hubs exactly.
Sprocket Type - fixed gear sprockets need a lockring to secure them so require an extra threaded part that has a slight step down from the main sprocket thread, some rear hubs have this on both sides to allow you to fit different size sprockets on the same wheel (double fixed). If the rear hub doesn’t have these then it's only suitable for a singlespeed freewheel, not fixed gear. Some hubs allow both fixed and singlespeed use, these are commonly referred to as 'Flip Flop' hubs.
Lockring Thread - the sprocket threads are the same on all track hubs, but the outer (reverse) threads for the lockring can be different. The thread types are not interchangeable so must match.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hubs measured at their widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. These measurements need to match the inside of your frame and fork’s dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
£56.25 £75.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 373 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£56.25 £75.00
Suntour XCD chain, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 336 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chain was designed to be used with.
Compatibility - the brand and/or shifting system the chain is compatible with. Universal means the chain can be used with any standard shifting system, as long as the speed and width are correct.
Chain width - the gap between the inner plates where the chain sits on the sprockets. 3/32" has been standard for bikes with derailleur gears since the mid 1900s. When 9 speed was introduced the spacing reduced slightly but if the speed & compatibility are correct this isn't something you need to pay attention to. Single speed, track & BMX bikes will require either a 3/32" or 1/8" chain depending on the width of the rear sprocket and/or chainring. There's also a much wider 3/16" moped chain which can be used as a heavy duty chain for bikes without gears if required.
Chain pitch - the distance between the rollers (the cylindrical parts that roll around the pins). Pretty much every bicycle chain will be 1/2", the only time you will need a different pitch is for very early track bikes that take a 3/16" chain (also known as 'inch pitch'), or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 1970s/80s.
Number of links - the total number of links in the chain. If you're unsure how many links you need, you can measure your old chain (or a bike with a similar setup to yours).
£55.25 £65.00
Sugino Super Mighty chainring, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£56.25 £75.00
Paturaud Grand Luxe toe clips, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 66 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£56.25 £75.00
Paturaud Grand Luxe toe clips, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£56.25 £75.00
Paturaud Special toe clips, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 64 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe clips!
OVERVIEW
**This is a guide based on traditional toe clip sizing for cycling shoes of the time, if you ride with chunkier shoes then we'd recommend going for a larger size. Please use this as a guide only and if possible use the length measurement provided to compare with toe clips you know fit well.
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Fixing - 'standard' toe clips fix to the front of the pedals, most will be of this type and work with both quill & platform pedals providing they have mounting holes in the correct place. There are also 'aero' ones that attach to the top, and side fixing versions too. 'Wide platform' fixings are similar to standard ones but the fixing holes are almost 3 inches apart.
Toe Strap Type - most toe clips are designed to accept a single toe strap, but there are some less common ones that allow two toe straps to be fitted.
Length - this is measured from the fixing end to the toe end at the most extreme points, the same way the manufacturers measure and we use this to recommend the fit if there's no size stamped on them. All length measurements are rounded to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Distance Between Fixing Bolts - we measure this distance from the centre of one hole to the next (ctc), this usually only needs to be close, not exact, providing the holes on the toe clips are oblong shaped to allow a decent amount of wiggle room (most toe clips are made this way).
£63.75 £85.00
Simplex SX8811 downtube shifters, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from delrin/steel and weighing in at 78 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£93.75 £125.00
Campagnolo Veloce downtube shifters, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 77 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£86.25 £115.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Gran Sport / 980 downtube shifters, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 65 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below).
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£63.75 £85.00
Roto Corsa headset, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 205 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£63.75 £85.00
Primax bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 281 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£71.25 £95.00
Cyclo freewheel, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£56.25 £75.00
Maillard CXC 650 pedals, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 375 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£71.25 £95.00
Suntour XCD X-Press shifters, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/aluminium and weighing in at 328 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£93.75 £125.00
Miche Team Box Sistem hubs, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 705 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Weinmann No. 294 rim, hailing from Switzerland and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 397 grams - incredibly lightweight for a rim at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rim!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Campagnolo Chorus UD cassette, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s . Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 191 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£75.00 £100.00
Campagnolo Omega 20 rim, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 475 grams - pretty lightweight for a rim at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£60.00 £80.00
Suntour XCD cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 321 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£65.00
Cobra Campagnolo water bottle, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're riding L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong water bottle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Bottle width - almost all bottle cages take a 75 mm bottle width, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£56.25 £75.00
Wipperman 110 chain, hailing from Germany and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 396 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chain was designed to be used with.
Compatibility - the brand and/or shifting system the chain is compatible with. Universal means the chain can be used with any standard shifting system, as long as the speed and width are correct.
Chain width - the gap between the inner plates where the chain sits on the sprockets. 3/32" has been standard for bikes with derailleur gears since the mid 1900s. When 9 speed was introduced the spacing reduced slightly but if the speed & compatibility are correct this isn't something you need to pay attention to. Single speed, track & BMX bikes will require either a 3/32" or 1/8" chain depending on the width of the rear sprocket and/or chainring. There's also a much wider 3/16" moped chain which can be used as a heavy duty chain for bikes without gears if required.
Chain pitch - the distance between the rollers (the cylindrical parts that roll around the pins). Pretty much every bicycle chain will be 1/2", the only time you will need a different pitch is for very early track bikes that take a 3/16" chain (also known as 'inch pitch'), or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 1970s/80s.
Number of links - the total number of links in the chain. If you're unsure how many links you need, you can measure your old chain (or a bike with a similar setup to yours).
£52.50 £70.00
Shimano 600 Ultegra front hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1997 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 211 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£77.63 £104.00
Selle Italia Sintesi saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1995 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 252 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
Campagnolo Athena front hub, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 219 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano 600EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 141 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£71.25 £95.00
Maillard IRCOS freewheel, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 389 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£93.75 £125.00
Miche Leader chainset, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 631 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£63.75 £85.00
Italmanubri (ITM) Tomahawk stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 235 grams - incredibly lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
3TTT Record AR stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 280 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Suntour XCE 4050 pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 363 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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