£535.50 £595.00
South London's finest, Roberts Cycles are known the world over but have a particular cache as a classy frame-builder in the UK. Charlie Roberts honed his craft building frames post-war for various London brands, including Claud Butler and Holdsworth, but decided to strike out on his own in the 1960s. Later, his sons Chas and Geoff were passed the torch. With Charlie's passing in the late '70s, Chas took over the management of the company, and Geoff built alongside Derek Bailey, producing more and more custom road, track, pursuit, and touring frames to an increasing number of admirers. In the early '80s, Winston Vaz joined and spearheaded the production of their mountain bike frames, notably the White Spider and D.O.G.S B.O.L.L.O.X. The brand is now highly sought after by collectors.
This lightweight 1991-built frame is a lovely example of the restrained but well-made custom frames coming out of Roberts' workshop at the time. Made from Reynolds 531 Professional, Reynolds' lightest version of the 531 tube set, it was recommended for racing only due to its thin walls. As was the fashion at the time, the frame has an internally routed rear brake cable, close clearances, and a Cinelli 'spoiler' BB. We suspect the frame has had a fairly recent repaint, as it is in lovely condition with a nice contrasting black and red colour scheme.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 29" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 49 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 51.5 cm
Head Tube - 91 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 97 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£328.50 £365.00
Former Carlton frame-builders Eddie and Chris Hazlehurst were not widely known outside of their native Derbyshire but built a small quantity of quality frames through the '80s and '90s. The name Edison came from 'Eddie and son,' and though there are not many surviving examples of their work built at their shop in Clowne, those that remain are well regarded.
This rare 1980s Edison frame is of lovely quality and built from Reynolds 531c lightweight tubing and long-point lugs with Carlton-esque semi-wrapped seat stays. Very light at just over 2.5 kg for a 55cm frame, this would have been a top-end custom bike in its day. With a striking blue-to-white-to-red fade paint job over chromed dropouts, it is in great condition and ready to be built up and ridden.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Medium (Approx 32 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 55 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 55 cm
Head Tube - 148 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 97.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£355.50 £395.00
Daccordi are a bicycle company with a long history of building bikes but a relatively short one as a brand. Having started in 1937, the business only built frames bearing other companies' names. Focusing on high-end road bikes from the mid-1940s, they made frames for the likes of Viner and Bertoni into the 1980s before building their first eponymous frames in 1981. Daccordi quickly found success with sponsored race teams, and their small-batch, meticulously built frames started to become highly desirable, particularly the high-end Turbo, Mitico, and Griffe models. One of the few Italian thoroughbred constructors still building in Italy today, Daccordi have constantly innovated with titanium, aluminium, and now carbon frames.
Only available from 1991 to 1993, the Mitico was the top-of-the-range frame for the brand during this period, coupling super-light tube sets with lugless construction. Built with Columbus EL and EL OS tubing and fillet brazed, this was a very light and stiff frame made for racing. The unicrown fork was cutting-edge for the time, and in line with its status, the frames were built to order and painted in-house in whatever colourway the customer desired.
Though we suspect this Mitico frame has been refinished, it is in great condition with a bright pillar-box red paint job and contrasting white decals. The unicrown fork, internal cable routing, and quality fillet brazing mark it out as a top-end early '90s bike, built for racing. Though the frame is fairly small, it is super light at just over 2.3 kg for the frame and fork.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 29" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 49 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 53 cm
Head Tube - 90 mm
Chainstay Length - 40 cm
Wheelbase - 97 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£535.50 £595.00
Perhaps one of the best-known of all British classic lightweight builders, Hetchins constructed their instantly recognised, elaborately lugged frames for over 60 years. Hyman Hetchins had a gramophone and cycle accessories shop in Tottenham in the 1920s, and by the 1930s, he was producing frames bearing the shop’s name. At this point, a partnership with one of his frame-builders, Jack Denny, was started, and a patent for vibrant rear stays was applied for. The curved shape of the rear stays was said to improve comfort on Britain’s rough roads; it also had the benefit of being easily distinguishable as a Hetchins-built frame, even from a distance. As well as the vibrant (or curly) rear end, Hetchins offered a huge range of frames, often with highly ornamental, heavily modified lugs, all with the option to further customise the final frame. The brand received further coverage with a successful export business into the burgeoning US market, where they are now highly collectible.
Though lacking the ornate lugs or shaped stays that other Hetchins sport, the Italia was a very finely made road frame designed to compete with the best Italian builders of the time. There were two versions of the Italia produced, with some made by a contractor in Italy from Columbus tubes, but the majority made in the Hetchins workshop from Reynolds 531. Built with shaped and filed Prugnat lugs and lightweight tubes, the frames normally featured the Italianate-style seat stay/seat tube junction and a more continental-style fork crown rather than Hetchins' twin-plate design. Like all hand-built, custom-order frames coming out of the Hetchins workshop, though, anything was possible, and there are many small variations and special features even on this supposedly simple frame.
This mid-1970s model Italia was probably built just after the shop moved to Southend, though it still sports the Tottenham address on the decals. Though less showy than some of the intricately lugged frames that were coming out of the workshop at the time, this frame still features carefully cut Prugnat lugs and a fork crown. This is a made-in-the-UK Reynolds 531 version of the Italia, which we believe still has its original paint and decals. Likely designed as a winter or training bike, the frame set has mudguard braze-ons and rear brake routing designed for a centre-pull brake.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Medium (Approx 32 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 55.5 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 56 cm
Head Tube - 137 mm
Chainstay Length - 42 cm
Wheelbase - 99.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£328.50 £365.00
Specialized began in the mid 70s when Mike Sinyard began importing hard to find Italian bike parts into the USA, their first branded product was a touring tyre and their first bike range in 1981 included a touring bike, a road bike and the first production mountain bike, the StumpJumper. Being first to mass produce the MTB proved to be a master stroke and the business grew rapidly as the niche sport came to dominate worldwide cycle sales through the 80s and 90s. As one of the first companies to mass produce and develop carbon fibre as a frame material, Specialized began to dominate the road market too, their successes across road, MTB and Cross racing is unparalleled.
Introduced in 1987, the HardRock was Specialized's foray into the entry level mountain bike market. Having been the first brand to mass produce mountain bikes they went on to lead the race scene with the StumpJumper Team and then offered the more affordable range of RockHopper bikes, and the HardRock used the DNA from these bikes at a lower price point. With frames made to their design and some Specialized branded parts made in Taiwan rather than Japan to keep the cost down, the HardRock sold extremely well and is still a staple of the Specialized MTB line-up now.
In original condition with '80s graphics over the red paint, this 1987 model was made in Taiwan with a custom-gauge steel frame that offers comfort and strength. With a full complement of braze-ons for mudguards and racks, and two sets of bottle cage bosses, this is ideal for repurposing as a touring or commuter bike.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - 0
Seat Tube (ctc) - 50 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 57 cm
Head Tube - 109 mm
Chainstay Length - 44.5 cm
Wheelbase - 107.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
£47.50 £50.00
Tacx T4025 jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 38 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£38.00 £40.00
Campagnolo C-Record jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These work with all Campagnolo 7/8 speed rear derailleurs from the same era, including Croce D'Aune, Chorus, Athena etc.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the jockey wheels!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£33.25 £35.00
Tacx T4000.25 jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 2000s. Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 19 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Crane jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 39 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the jockey wheels!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£33.25 £35.00
Campagnolo Record jockey wheels (or derailleur pulleys if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 32 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These work with all Campagnolo 9 speed rear derailleurs, including Chorus, Racing-T, Veloce etc. They also work with 10 speed Campagnolo Record models from 2004.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Teeth - the tooth count has increased with the introduction of more gears, but this happened very gradually so 10 tooth jockey wheels were standard for a very long time.
*Compatible Speed - the number of cogs the jockey wheels were designed to be used with. When using derailleurs for indexed shifting it's important to stick to this, but friction shifting is much more forgiving so you're unlikely to have any problems using the next speed up or down, providing all the measurements are correct.
Diameter (OD) - the diameter of the jockey wheels, from the outside edge of the teeth. It’s important to stay close to the ones you're replacing to ensure they fit.
Thickness - measured at the widest point, by the centre hole. The spacing has generally become narrower over the years to accommodate more gears.
Centre Hole (ID) - the inside diameter (usually inside the bushing/spacer if present). This rarely presents a problem, but some older jockey wheels have a different diameter so it's worth double checking.
£30.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1972. Made from steel and weighing in at 148 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£35.00
Stronglight Competition bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 153 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£40.00
Zeus Criterium bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Spain and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 138 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£30.00
Sugino Mighty bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 149 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£28.50 £30.00
Specialized F6 bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 138 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£20.00
Specialized K7 bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 150 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£40.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. This version is for the chainsets produced before the CPSC changes that were made around 1978 - these require a slightly narrower axle than the 'post-CPSC' ones. Made from steel and weighing in at 141 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£35.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. This version is for the chainsets produced before the CPSC changes that were made around 1978 - these require a slightly narrower axle than the 'post-CPSC' ones. Made from steel and weighing in at 140 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£35.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. This version is for the chainsets produced before the CPSC changes that were made around 1978 - these require a slightly narrower axle than the 'post-CPSC' ones. Made from steel and weighing in at 143 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£35.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. This version is for the chainsets produced before the CPSC changes that were made around 1978 - these require a slightly narrower axle than the 'post-CPSC' ones. Made from steel and weighing in at 140 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£40.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Croce D'Aune bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 140 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The axle has been thoroughly checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£19.00 £20.00
REG toe strap buttons (or ends, or caps, or retainers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 4 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe strap buttons!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.00
Campagnolo C-Record toe strap buttons (or ends, or caps, or retainers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 5 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These were also supplied with pedals & straps from other groups of the era, including Croce D'Aune, Chorus & Athena.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe strap buttons!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£19.00 £20.00
REG toe strap buttons (or ends, or caps, or retainers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from plastic and weighing in at 4 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe strap buttons!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£28.50 £30.00
Shimano 105 cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£15.00
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£15.00
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£15.00
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£15.00
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£25.00
3TTT bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£17.50
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 6 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£17.50
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£15.00
Cateye Model-100 bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 5 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£17.50
Cinelli bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£20.00
Cinelli bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£15.00
Benotto bar end caps (or plugs, or stoppers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from plastic and weighing in at 7 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong handlebar caps!
The caps have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.
End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.
£17.00 £20.00
Classic Colnago - Teugels - Just Fit cycling cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£42.75 £45.00
Shimano Ultegra pedals, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 348 grams - incredibly lightweight for clipless pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cleat System - the cleat the pedals were designed to fit. The brand of cleats doesn't have to match, as long as they were designed for the same system.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£42.75 £45.00
Suntour GPX / Radius freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1990. Made from steel and weighing in at 335 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£18.00 £20.00
Arundel Chrono TT water bottle (or bidon, or borraccia...), hailing from the United States and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
Cage Fit - almost all bottle cages have a standard opening size (between 70 -75 mm), the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite cages that take a 66 mm bottle (and of course the funny shaped aero ones).
£42.75 £45.00
Sachs LY94 freewheel, hailing from Germany and dating back to 1994. Made from steel and weighing in at 378 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£52.25 £55.00
Suntour New Winner freewheel, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 366 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Cog width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£17.50
Simpla Alu-Star water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from Poland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 124 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£47.50 £50.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 38 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£42.75 £45.00
Campagnolo Triomphe down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 41 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£52.25 £55.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 66 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£61.75 £65.00
Shimano Sante down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 76 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£22.50 £25.00
Kalloy AL222 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 360 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£33.25 £35.00
3TTT Record Strada handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 252 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£137.75 £145.00
3TTT Record Strada handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 267 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
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