£27.50
Truvativ XR handlebars, hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 170 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£26.25 £35.00
Tufo S22 tubular/sprint tyre, hailing from Czechia in production during the 2000s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 289 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The tyre's been checked for general wear, that it's holding air as expected and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tubular Wheel Size - standard/full size tubulars only come in one wheel size, these are often referred to as 28" or 700c (sometimes even 27"). These are all the same size, the next size down is 26", so any wheel larger than 26" will take a standard/full size tubular.
Width - the width of the tyre as stated by the manufacturer (if present), if there are no markings we measure at the widest point when fully inflated. Depending on the manufacturer, the stated width can differ slightly from the actual width when measured, although usually this only minimal.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread whereas cyclocross tyres will be wider with a more pronounced tread pattern, and MTB tyres even more so.
Casing - the main structure of the tyre that surrounds the inner tube and provides the base for the rubber tread. Most tubulars have cotton casings but other materials are used such as nylon, kevlar or silk. We can’t always provide this information as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the casing, if known. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi.
Valve Core - some valve cores are removable allowing you to add sealant or valve extenders, if the valve cores are fixed this is not possible.
£30.00
Tzu Tune pedals, in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 335 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£41.25 £55.00
Vintage leggings, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong leggings!
The leggings have been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.




£25.00
Unbranded vintage seatpost, most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 191 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00
Unbranded vintage seatpost, most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 192 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage handlebars, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 448 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked, cleaned and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest 5 mm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage stem, most likely dating back to 1989. Made from steel and weighing in at 479 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded classic stem, most likely dating back to 1990. Made from steel and weighing in at 419 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded classic stem, most likely in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 424 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£48.75 £65.00
Jonge Trappers cycling shorts, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shorts!
The shorts have been thoroughly checked over and graded as excellent condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist (Relaxed) - this measurement is taken across the waist with the shorts laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Waist (Full Stretch) - the same as the previous measurement but with the elastic at full stretch.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top to the bottom, along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Hem (Relaxed) - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hem (Full Stretch) - the same as the relaxed hem measurement but with the elastic at full stretch.







£48.75 £65.00
Vintage leggings, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong leggings!
The leggings have been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.




£41.25 £55.00
Vintage leggings, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong leggings!
The leggings have been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.




£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage chainset, most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 1005 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage crank/chainset, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 876 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the thread type to match that of the chainset, this must match and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded Steel headset, in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 136 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage drop handlebars, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 550 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked by one of our mechanics, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£37.50 £50.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 162 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 182 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 176 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 145 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production during the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 162 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£33.75 £45.00
Unbranded vintage stem, most likely in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 329 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£38.25 £45.00
Unbranded vintage chainring, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 295 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainring!
The chainring's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as mint condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring, the higher the number the harder the gear.
Between Adjacent Bolt Holes - the measurement from the centre of any bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one, if this measurement is the same as that of your crankset and the bolt count is the same then the chainring should fit.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is the technical way to determine whether the chainring fits your crankset. To calculate, multiply the distance between adjacent holes (in mm) by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little).
Bolt Count - the number of bolts securing the chainring to the chainset. As with the BCD, this must be the same as your chainset.
Chain Width - 3/32” is the standard width for double and triple chainsets, wherease 1/8” chainrings are only found on single ring chainsets, generally for track / singlespeed use and can only be used with a wide 1/8" chain.
Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainring was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainrings intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage brake levers, most likely in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 207 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£45.00 £60.00
Unbranded vintage brake levers, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 216 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded vintage right crank/chainring set, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 591 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the crank. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage right crank/chainring set, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 530 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the crank. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage right crank/chainring set, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 555 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the crank. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£34.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage crank/chainset, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 979 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the thread type to match that of the chainset, this must match and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£38.00 £40.00
Vintage hairnet head protector (or Danish helmet if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, a hairnet is the perfect finishing touch. It won't give you the protection of a modern helmet of course, so please take care, but you'll certainly look the part.
The helmet's been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Head Circumference - measured around the inside edge of the head band. The material often has a little flex but this needs to be close to your head circumference for a secure fit. This may differ from any stamp / label on the product, as we measure this ourselves for accuracy consistency.
£41.25 £55.00
Vintage leggings, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong leggings!
The leggings have been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.




£25.00
Union pedals, hailing from Germany and in production during the 2000s. Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 578 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£25.00
Union pedals, hailing from Germany and in production during the 2000s. Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 560 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£48.75 £65.00
Universal CX brake calipers, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 331 grams - pretty lightweight for a pair of brake calipers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brakes!
The brakes have been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£48.75 £65.00
Universal Mod. 77 brake calipers, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 348 grams - pretty lightweight for a pair of brake calipers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brakes!
The brakes have been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£27.00 £30.00
Vintage Van Der Heijden's Meubelen cycling cap, hailing from The Netherlands and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cap!
The cap's been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£26.25 £35.00
Varese drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 289 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked by one of our mechanics, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£26.25 £35.00
Velo-Sport short sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike, and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£30.00 £40.00
Vermarc GWK long sleeved cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike, and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£48.75 £65.00
Vermarc Holst-iglas leggings, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong leggings!
The leggings have been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.
Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.
Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.
Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.




£30.00
Vermarc cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£26.25 £35.00
Vermarc WV Tour de Force long sleeved cycling jersey, likely made in the 1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike, and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & SIZING
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£45.00
Vetta saddle (or seat if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from synthetic/steel material and weighing in at 417 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£25.50 £30.00
Vetta Transverse AT saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1995. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 291 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00
Unbranded vintage toe straps (or pedal straps if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s. The straps are white in colour and made from leather/steel, the perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe straps!
The straps have been checked over, cleaned (as much as you can clean toe straps!) and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Toe Strap Type - standard toe clips are designed to accept single toe straps, but there are some that allow double toe straps to be fitted.
Strap Width - measured across one of the straps at its widest point.
Toe Strap Length - the total length including the buckle, measured to the nearest 0.5 cm.
£28.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 583 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The stem's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£30.00 £40.00
Unbranded vintage drinks bottle & cage set, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle & cage!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Capacity - 500ml used to be the standard sized bottle, but the taller modern versions tend to be 750ml.
£31.50 £35.00
Vintage Cicli Concorde / Ultima musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£46.75 £55.00
Unbranded vintage saddle, most likely in production from the 1940s to the 1960s. Made from leather/steel material and weighing in at 620 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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