£103.50 £115.00
Unbranded vintage Titanium bottom bracket (or BB for short), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from titanium/aluminium and weighing in at 149 grams - incredibly lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as mint condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£99.00 £110.00
Campagnolo Chorus chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1990. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 637 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
£63.00 £70.00
Sugino MP chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 729 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
£58.50 £65.00
Boeri hairnet head protector (or Danish helmet if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, a hairnet is the perfect finishing touch. It won't give you the protection of a modern helmet of course, so please take care, but you'll certainly look the part.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Head Circumference - measured around the inside edge of the head band. The material often has a little flex but this needs to be close to your head circumference for a secure fit. This may differ from any stamp / label on the product, as we measure this ourselves for accuracy consistency.
£49.50 £55.00
Sedis Sedisport chain, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£15.75 £17.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 60 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£22.50 £25.00
Tacx Uni water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 108 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.25 £22.50
Sprint water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 114 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.25 £22.50
Sprint water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 116 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£76.50 £85.00
Shimano Deore LX shift/brake levers, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 469 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£22.50 £25.00
Unbranded classic seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), most likely in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 288 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£20.25 £22.50
Strong seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£22.50 £25.00
Kalloy ahead handlebar stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 228 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the steerer clamp, to the nearest 5 mm. This measurement is taken through the middle of the extension, not along the top or bottom.
Steerer Size (OD) - OD means outside diameter, this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the outside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be clamped.
Bar Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Stack Height - the height of the part that clamps to the forks. This is the minimum amount of space you will need on the fork's steerer column for the stem to fit (minus a few mm as the top of the steerer tube needs to sit just below the top of the stem).
Angle - the angle of the stem's extension in relation to the the fork steerer. Bear in mind the steerer sits at the same angle as the head tube, so a 90 degree stem would not be parallel to the ground. Some manufacturers refer to this as rise or drop, in which case an 80 degree stem would drop 10 degrees from a right angle. Most a-head stems can be flipped although it does depend on the design.
£40.50 £45.00
Shimano Tiagra front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 208 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£49.50 £55.00
Shimano Deore XT front hub, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 210 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£18.00 £20.00
HL Corp (Zoom) handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from China and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 484 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£27.00 £30.00
Wellgo LU-987 U pedals, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 589 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£117.00 £130.00
Regina Extra CX freewheel, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 412 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) that the freewheel will require once installed, including any protruding body parts such as base plates.
Overall Sprocket Spacing - this is measured from the outside of the first cog to the outside of the last cog.
Chain Width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£29.25 £32.50
Panaracer Duster Pro Compe folding tyre, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from rubber/kevlar and weighing in at 540 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one tyre, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheel. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyre was designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rim at the point where the tyre is seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casing. A high thread count usually means a more supple and lighter tyre, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£405.00 £450.00
Fanini are a true cycling family: promotors; sponsors; team owners; sales reps; manufacturers, and amongst all of this they produced some magnificent hand built bikes. Often equal parts work of art to pure performance, Fanini built bikes that showed what Italian craftsmanship and flair could achieve. Frequently sporting Campagnolo's top end groupsets and a red paintjob, Fanini were built in low numbers throughout the 70s and 80s and are now rather rare to find.
A beautifully understated 1970s lightweight road frame from Fanini, probably made with Columbus SL tubes. Finely detailed hand-cut lugs and a slotted bottom bracket were typical of the artisanal approach to frame-building at Fanini and helped keep the weight down. The metallic burgundy paint job looks to have newer decals applied over the clear coat, and aside from some marks, is in lovely usable condition.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Medium (Approx 32" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 54 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 54 cm
Head Tube - 133 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 98.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£535.50 £595.00
South London's finest, Roberts Cycles are known the world over but have a particular cache as a classy frame-builder in the UK. Charlie Roberts honed his craft building frames post-war for various London brands, including Claud Butler and Holdsworth, but decided to strike out on his own in the 1960s. Later, his sons Chas and Geoff were passed the torch. With Charlie's passing in the late '70s, Chas took over the management of the company, and Geoff built alongside Derek Bailey, producing more and more custom road, track, pursuit, and touring frames to an increasing number of admirers. In the early '80s, Winston Vaz joined and spearheaded the production of their mountain bike frames, notably the White Spider and D.O.G.S B.O.L.L.O.X. The brand is now highly sought after by collectors.
This lightweight 1991-built frame is a lovely example of the restrained but well-made custom frames coming out of Roberts' workshop at the time. Made from Reynolds 531 Professional, Reynolds' lightest version of the 531 tube set, it was recommended for racing only due to its thin walls. As was the fashion at the time, the frame has an internally routed rear brake cable, close clearances, and a Cinelli 'spoiler' BB. We suspect the frame has had a fairly recent repaint, as it is in lovely condition with a nice contrasting black and red colour scheme.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 29" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 49 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 51.5 cm
Head Tube - 91 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 97 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£328.50 £365.00
Former Carlton frame-builders Eddie and Chris Hazlehurst were not widely known outside of their native Derbyshire but built a small quantity of quality frames through the '80s and '90s. The name Edison came from 'Eddie and son,' and though there are not many surviving examples of their work built at their shop in Clowne, those that remain are well regarded.
This rare 1980s Edison frame is of lovely quality and built from Reynolds 531c lightweight tubing and long-point lugs with Carlton-esque semi-wrapped seat stays. Very light at just over 2.5 kg for a 55cm frame, this would have been a top-end custom bike in its day. With a striking blue-to-white-to-red fade paint job over chromed dropouts, it is in great condition and ready to be built up and ridden.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Medium (Approx 32 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 55 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 55 cm
Head Tube - 148 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 97.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£355.50 £395.00
Daccordi are a bicycle company with a long history of building bikes but a relatively short one as a brand. Having started in 1937, the business only built frames bearing other companies' names. Focusing on high-end road bikes from the mid-1940s, they made frames for the likes of Viner and Bertoni into the 1980s before building their first eponymous frames in 1981. Daccordi quickly found success with sponsored race teams, and their small-batch, meticulously built frames started to become highly desirable, particularly the high-end Turbo, Mitico, and Griffe models. One of the few Italian thoroughbred constructors still building in Italy today, Daccordi have constantly innovated with titanium, aluminium, and now carbon frames.
Only available from 1991 to 1993, the Mitico was the top-of-the-range frame for the brand during this period, coupling super-light tube sets with lugless construction. Built with Columbus EL and EL OS tubing and fillet brazed, this was a very light and stiff frame made for racing. The unicrown fork was cutting-edge for the time, and in line with its status, the frames were built to order and painted in-house in whatever colourway the customer desired.
Though we suspect this Mitico frame has been refinished, it is in great condition with a bright pillar-box red paint job and contrasting white decals. The unicrown fork, internal cable routing, and quality fillet brazing mark it out as a top-end early '90s bike, built for racing. Though the frame is fairly small, it is super light at just over 2.3 kg for the frame and fork.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 29" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 49 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 53 cm
Head Tube - 90 mm
Chainstay Length - 40 cm
Wheelbase - 97 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£535.50 £595.00
Perhaps one of the best-known of all British classic lightweight builders, Hetchins constructed their instantly recognised, elaborately lugged frames for over 60 years. Hyman Hetchins had a gramophone and cycle accessories shop in Tottenham in the 1920s, and by the 1930s, he was producing frames bearing the shop’s name. At this point, a partnership with one of his frame-builders, Jack Denny, was started, and a patent for vibrant rear stays was applied for. The curved shape of the rear stays was said to improve comfort on Britain’s rough roads; it also had the benefit of being easily distinguishable as a Hetchins-built frame, even from a distance. As well as the vibrant (or curly) rear end, Hetchins offered a huge range of frames, often with highly ornamental, heavily modified lugs, all with the option to further customise the final frame. The brand received further coverage with a successful export business into the burgeoning US market, where they are now highly collectible.
Though lacking the ornate lugs or shaped stays that other Hetchins sport, the Italia was a very finely made road frame designed to compete with the best Italian builders of the time. There were two versions of the Italia produced, with some made by a contractor in Italy from Columbus tubes, but the majority made in the Hetchins workshop from Reynolds 531. Built with shaped and filed Prugnat lugs and lightweight tubes, the frames normally featured the Italianate-style seat stay/seat tube junction and a more continental-style fork crown rather than Hetchins' twin-plate design. Like all hand-built, custom-order frames coming out of the Hetchins workshop, though, anything was possible, and there are many small variations and special features even on this supposedly simple frame.
This mid-1970s model Italia was probably built just after the shop moved to Southend, though it still sports the Tottenham address on the decals. Though less showy than some of the intricately lugged frames that were coming out of the workshop at the time, this frame still features carefully cut Prugnat lugs and a fork crown. This is a made-in-the-UK Reynolds 531 version of the Italia, which we believe still has its original paint and decals. Likely designed as a winter or training bike, the frame set has mudguard braze-ons and rear brake routing designed for a centre-pull brake.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Medium (Approx 32 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 55.5 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 56 cm
Head Tube - 137 mm
Chainstay Length - 42 cm
Wheelbase - 99.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
£328.50 £365.00
Specialized began in the mid 70s when Mike Sinyard began importing hard to find Italian bike parts into the USA, their first branded product was a touring tyre and their first bike range in 1981 included a touring bike, a road bike and the first production mountain bike, the StumpJumper. Being first to mass produce the MTB proved to be a master stroke and the business grew rapidly as the niche sport came to dominate worldwide cycle sales through the 80s and 90s. As one of the first companies to mass produce and develop carbon fibre as a frame material, Specialized began to dominate the road market too, their successes across road, MTB and Cross racing is unparalleled.
Introduced in 1987, the HardRock was Specialized's foray into the entry level mountain bike market. Having been the first brand to mass produce mountain bikes they went on to lead the race scene with the StumpJumper Team and then offered the more affordable range of RockHopper bikes, and the HardRock used the DNA from these bikes at a lower price point. With frames made to their design and some Specialized branded parts made in Taiwan rather than Japan to keep the cost down, the HardRock sold extremely well and is still a staple of the Specialized MTB line-up now.
In original condition with '80s graphics over the red paint, this 1987 model was made in Taiwan with a custom-gauge steel frame that offers comfort and strength. With a full complement of braze-ons for mudguards and racks, and two sets of bottle cage bosses, this is ideal for repurposing as a touring or commuter bike.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - 0
Seat Tube (ctc) - 50 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 57 cm
Head Tube - 109 mm
Chainstay Length - 44.5 cm
Wheelbase - 107.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
£22.50 £25.00
Kalloy AL222 handlebar stem (or gooseneck if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 360 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£13.50 £15.00
Campagnolo C-Record cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£13.50 £15.00
Triplex set of 2 inner cables (or wires if you prefer), hailing from Spain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length (F/R) - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.25 £22.50
Unbranded vintage inner cable (or wire if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.25 £22.50
Alva inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£11.25 £12.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£7.65 £8.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£9.00 £10.00
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Eltra inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Elvedes inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from The Netherlands and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Ekla inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£6.75 £7.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£7.65 £8.50
Velda inner cable (or wire if you prefer), hailing from Belgium and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£27.00 £30.00
Shimano STX RC set of 4 rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 150 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 pads). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon ones require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£76.50 £85.00
Modolo Professional set of 4 rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 102 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon ones require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£36.00 £40.00
Modolo Flash set of 4 rim brake pads (or blocks, or shoes if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 86 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 pads). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon ones require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£40.50 £45.00
Campagnolo Hyperon / Bora set of 4 replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Weighing in at 44 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - most brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£36.00 £40.00
Scott/Mathauser 'M' set of 4 replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 32 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - most brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£58.50 £65.00
Campagnolo SYNT set of 4 replacement inserts for brake pads (or shoes, or blocks if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Weighing in at 30 grams (the weight and price displayed is for 4 inserts). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake pads!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Brake Fit - most brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.
Compatibility - the brake pad holders (also known as shoes) the inserts are designed to fit.
Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.
£72.00 £80.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1976. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 199 grams - incredibly lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£99.00 £110.00
Campagnolo Record rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 256 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£18.00 £20.00
Classic Tacconi Sport / Carrera / Santini musette (or feed bag if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1990s. An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
The bag's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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