£22.50 £30.00
Shimano FE front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1981 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 158 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£60.00 £80.00
Shimano Deore LX headset, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 157 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£37.50 £50.00
Shimano Exage bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 339 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£71.25 £95.00
Shimano STX hubs, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1998 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 638 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 211 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cassette!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano Alivio hubs, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 660 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano Deore LX hubs, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 703 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1995 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 332 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£16.88 £23.00
Shimano RX100 brake caliper, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 205 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The brake's been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - this determines whether the brake is designed to be used on the front or rear wheel of the bike.
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£37.50 £50.00
Shimano PD-A200 pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/plastic/steel and weighing in at 525 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£52.50 £70.00
Shimano Sora chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 861 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
£30.00 £40.00
Shimano Altus cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 300 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano Deore LX rear mech (or derailleur, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 288 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano 600 EX downtube shifters, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 52 grams - pretty lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£37.50 £50.00
Shimano Deore LX front hub, dating back to 1993 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 219 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
£24.38 £33.00
Shimano 105 front hub, in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 221 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The hub's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly serviced by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano 600EX / Campagnolo Victory Strada front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and dating back to 1986. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 932 grams - pretty lightweight for a front wheel at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£48.75 £65.00
Shimano Deore LX / Mavic front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 984 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano 600 AX pedals, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 444 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£22.50 £30.00
Shimano 600 Ultegra front mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1990. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 93 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The front mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano 600EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 142 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano 600EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 141 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£52.50 £70.00
Shimano 600 Ultegra front hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1997 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 211 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano Dura-Ace headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 103 grams - pretty lightweight for a headset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano 600 / Mavic Championnat Du Monde Sur Route front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and dating back to 1979. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 912 grams - pretty lightweight for a front wheel at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano 600 / Mavic CXP 33 front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 978 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£71.25 £95.00
Shimano 105 / Mavic Open 4 CD front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 998 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano STX Special Edition front hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1993 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 232 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX headset, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 130 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£30.00 £40.00
Shimano 105 brake levers, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1992. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 260 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£82.50 £110.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX brake levers, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1980. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 208 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£22.50 £30.00
Shimano Exage 400LX rear mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1990. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 321 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
*Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£67.50 £90.00
Shimano Ultegra rear mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 2002. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 218 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
*Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£168.75 £225.00
Shimano Deore LX wheels built with Weinmann Z121 rims, the hubs hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 2.4 kg. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The wheels have been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£78.75 £105.00
Shimano 600 / Mavic Championnat Du Monde Sur Route front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and dating back to 1977. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 953 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£48.75 £65.00
Shimano Exage Mountain / Unbranded front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 984 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur / mech, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£48.75 £65.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX front derailleur / mech, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 97 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The front derailleur / mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur / mech, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 101 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£15.00 £20.00
Shimano Acera-X front derailleur / mech, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1994. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 159 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The front derailleur / mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£30.00 £40.00
Shimano 600 EX right crank arm/spider, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1986. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 290 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the crank was designed to fit. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter), and this needs to match the BCD of your chainring(s). To calculate this, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano 600 AX right crank arm/spider, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 278 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong crank!
The crank arm has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings the crank was designed to fit. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter), and this needs to match the BCD of your chainring(s). To calculate this, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt hole to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal Threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the crank and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a crank that matches.
£56.25 £75.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 373 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£48.75 £65.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 339 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£30.00 £40.00
Shimano front hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1988 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 145 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano 600 freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 266 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996. Made from steel and weighing in at 418 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£18.75 £25.00
Shimano Light Action brake caliper, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 168 grams - pretty lightweight for a brake caliper at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - this determines whether the brake is designed to be used on the front or rear wheel of the bike.
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim, measured in a straight line. Your measurement must be within the range of the caliper's given brake drop.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£56.25 £75.00
Shimano Ultegra cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 210 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£60.00 £80.00
Shimano Ultegra cassette, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 260 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
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