£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of original NOS lined housing with new inner cables, these sets make a great substitute for the iconic Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record cables from the 70s/80s. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of vintage new old stock housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£25.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of vintage new old stock housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£12.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 58 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£15.00
Reynolds cap, likely made in the 2010s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic QuickStep - Innergetic cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Topsport Vlaanderen - Mercator cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Omega Pharma - Lotto cap, likely made in the 2010s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic QuickStep - Innergetic cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Acqua & Sapone - Caffe Mokambo cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic CSF Group - Navigare- Colnago cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Vacansoleil - Batavus - SMS Santini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Tonissteiner - Colnago - Skoda cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Chocolade Jacques - Topsport Vlaanderen - Merckx cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Amore & Vita - McDonald's - Fanini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Selle Italia - Serramenti Diquigiovanni - Santini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£45.00
Tecnoluan Piemme Autoricambi - Timec - Parkpre cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Vintage long sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£60.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Vintage long sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£60.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Vintage long sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£40.00
Cicli Debruyne - Assubel - Lokaal Edelweiss Klerken cycling jersey, hailing from Belgium and likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Key West - Easy Walk Ocean Club cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Germany and likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Germany and likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£40.00
Vintage cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Germany and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£40.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Germany and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£35.00
Vintage cycling jersey, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Colnago - BBS Banden winter cycling jacket, likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jacket!
The jacket’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jacket laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jacket laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£20.00
Unbranded vintage toe straps (or pedal straps if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The straps are grey in colour and made from leather, the perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe straps!
The straps have been checked over, cleaned (as much as you can clean toe straps!) and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Toe Strap Type - standard toe clips are designed to accept single toe straps, but there are some that allow double toe straps to be fitted.
Strap Width - measured across one of the straps at its widest point.
Toe Strap Length - the total length including the buckle, measured to the nearest 0.5 cm.
£30.00
Unbranded vintage toe straps (or pedal straps if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s. The straps are white in colour and made from leather/steel, the perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe straps!
The straps have been checked over, cleaned (as much as you can clean toe straps!) and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Toe Strap Type - standard toe clips are designed to accept single toe straps, but there are some that allow double toe straps to be fitted.
Strap Width - measured across one of the straps at its widest point.
Toe Strap Length - the total length including the buckle, measured to the nearest 0.5 cm.
£35.00
Unbranded classic pedals, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 394 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£25.00
Unbranded vintage headset, most likely in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 182 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard. Headclip headsets were made to fit fork steerers with 1" or the reduced 31/32" size steerers, as well as 1 1/8" versions for tandems.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£30.00
Unbranded classic drop handlebars, most likely in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 365 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the bottom of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£15.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£10.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cable!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part
£75.00
Vintage hairnet head protector (or Danish helmet if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, a hairnet is the perfect finishing touch. It won't give you the protection of a modern helmet of course, so please take care, but you'll certainly look the part.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Head Circumference - measured around the inside edge of the head band. The material often has a little flex but this needs to be close to your head circumference for a secure fit. This may differ from any stamp / label on the product, as we measure this ourselves for accuracy consistency.
£38.00 £40.00
Vintage hairnet head protector (or Danish helmet if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, a hairnet is the perfect finishing touch. It won't give you the protection of a modern helmet of course, so please take care, but you'll certainly look the part.
The helmet's been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Head Circumference - measured around the inside edge of the head band. The material often has a little flex but this needs to be close to your head circumference for a secure fit. This may differ from any stamp / label on the product, as we measure this ourselves for accuracy consistency.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage chain, most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 368 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£15.75 £17.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 60 grams (the weight and price displayed are for one cage, if we have more in stock you'll be able to add them to your basket). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£35.00
Vintage water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 116 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
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