£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of original NOS lined housing with new inner cables, these sets make a great substitute for the iconic Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record cables from the 70s/80s. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£22.50
Casiraghi cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of original NOS Casiraghi Industries housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of vintage new old stock housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£25.00
Unbranded vintage cable set (outer casing and inner wires), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Made up of vintage new old stock housing with new inner cables. Complete with ferrules and end caps, and with plenty of cable outer for even the largest frames.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£60.00
Continental Ultra Sport II folding tyres, hailing from Germany and in production during the 2010s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 663 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
NB: If mounted in the photos this is for illustrative purpose only, any wheels or rims shown are not included.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£35.00
Vittoria Rubino Pro folding tyres, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2010s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 480 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£35.00
Vittoria Rubino Pro folding tyres, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2010s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 480 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£30.00
Shimano Dura-Ace front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 91 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£20.00
Zefal TX Mini bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£115.00
Shimano Deore XT shift/brake levers, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£125.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 521 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£145.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from plastic/aluminium and weighing in at 532 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£25.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cages (or bidon holders if you prefer), hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 92 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of cages). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
These are the final versions of the Plum lightweight bottle cage, featuring wrap-around 'sleeves' and punched dimples on the rear of the frame mounts, replacing the exposed welded construction of the previous design.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carriers!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need clamp-on bottle cages.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£10.00
Specialites T.A. 'Plum' water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from France and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/plastic and weighing in at 49 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
First introduced in the 1970s and originally available in black & silver only, this version of the Plum lightweight bottle cage features the exposed welded construction favoured for its strength and durability. The later T.A. logo on the black plastic tab was introduced in the 1980s when it became available in a choice of colours.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is of the correct era, so rest assured the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottle carrier!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£12.50
Minoura water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 83 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£12.50
Vintage water bottle cage (or bidon holder if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 58 grams. The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The bottle cage has been checked for damage, thoroughly cleaned and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the shape & condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.
Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Vintage cap, likely made in the 1980s/1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£15.00
Reynolds cap, likely made in the 2010s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic QuickStep - Innergetic cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Topsport Vlaanderen - Mercator cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Omega Pharma - Lotto cap, likely made in the 2010s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic QuickStep - Innergetic cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Acqua & Sapone - Caffe Mokambo cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic CSF Group - Navigare- Colnago cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Vacansoleil - Batavus - SMS Santini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Tonissteiner - Colnago - Skoda cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Chocolade Jacques - Topsport Vlaanderen - Merckx cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Amore & Vita - McDonald's - Fanini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£20.00
Classic Selle Italia - Serramenti Diquigiovanni - Santini cap, likely made in the 2000s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£25.00
Vredestein visor, hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£30.00
Vredestein visor, hailing from The Netherlands and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£7.50
Joytech front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 99 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£25.00
Sun Ringle wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 105 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£40.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 83 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£25.00
Cambio Rino rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 86 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£20.00
Campagnolo Xenon front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 71 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 165 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£17.50
Zeus Criterium rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Spain and in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 86 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£40.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The design is of the ’post-CPSC’ era produced from around 1978 onwards. Made from steel and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The design is of the ’post-CPSC’ era produced from around 1978 onwards. Made from steel and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£45.00
Decca Meubelen Nibema - Bakkerij Franssen cycling jersey, hailing from Belgium and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£45.00
Tecnoluan Piemme Autoricambi - Timec - Parkpre cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1990s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£50.00
Jolanda G.S. Avis - Monselice cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
The jersey’s been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Caratti long sleeved cycling jersey, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£65.00
Vintage long sleeved cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£60.00
Vintage cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£60.00
Caratti cycling jersey, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





£40.00
MOA Sport cycling jersey, hailing from Italy and likely made in the 1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong jersey!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.
Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.
Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.
Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).
Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.





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