£125.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/rubber and weighing in at 521 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£145.00
Campagnolo C-Record shift/brake levers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from plastic/aluminium and weighing in at 532 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These 8 speed Ergo levers were only the 2nd type produced by Campagnolo. Although listed as Record in the catalogue, they came at the very back end of the C-Record era, around 1993.
The shifters have been checked over by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction setups you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup.
Shift System - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting, for this to work correctly you must use the same shift system as your rear derailleur.
Shifter Type - brifters' are designed to be used on road drop type handlebars and 'trigger' shifters are designed to be used on flat bars, usually for mountain bikes.
Chainset Compatibility - the number of rings on the chainset the left shifter is capable of working with (providing the front derailleur is capable of the same).
Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible shift/brake levers. For traditional side pull calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need shift/brake levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.
£40.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 83 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£20.00
Campagnolo Xenon front wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 71 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 165 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£40.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record rear wheel skewer (or hub spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. The design is of the ’pre-CPSC’ era produced until around 1978. Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewer!
The skewer's been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The design is of the ’post-CPSC’ era produced from around 1978 onwards. Made from steel and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record wheel skewers (or hub spindles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. The design is of the ’post-CPSC’ era produced from around 1978 onwards. Made from steel and weighing in at 178 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong skewers!
The skewers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.
*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame & fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.
Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.
End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.
£45.00
Campagnolo Triomphe down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 37 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£60.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 68 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£50.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 41 grams - incredibly lightweight for downtube shifters at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£165.00
Campagnolo C-Record down tube shifters (or gear levers if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 70 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shifters!
The shifters have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Fixing Type - if you have small mounts on either side of the frame’s down tube you need braze-on shifters, if there are no mounts you’ll need clamp-on (sometimes referred to as band-on). Some 'aero' frames have mounts fixed to the top of the down tube, for these frames you require top mount shifters for the correct boss type (see below). There are also 'Clamp-Over' shifters that allow front & rear shifters to be used on a frame that only has a single braze-on.
Shift Type - friction shifters don't click into gear when you change, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. For this to work correctly you must use the same system as your rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match. You don't need to worry about the front derailleur as left downtube shifters aren't indexed.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the right shifter is designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting but with friction shifters you can in theory run any shifters with any speed setup, although the right lever will need to be pulled back further to shift into the larger cogs.
Shifter Boss Type - the shape of the mount (for braze-on fixings only). Campagnolo / ISO is standard and easily identified by the flat sections on either side, usually combined with a square base for the backing stop plates to fit. There are also Shimano ones with a keyhole shaped base and much less common French ones that are round with no flat sections.
Boss Thread Size - M5 (5 mm) is standard for Campagnolo / ISO bosses, but Shimano bosses will often have M4.5 (4.5 mm) threads and the French bosses would likely have 5 x 1 mm threads.
£65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record front derailleur (or mech, or changer if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 96 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£85.00
Campagnolo Record front derailleur (or mech, or changer if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 105 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record front derailleur (or mech, or changer if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 92 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record front derailleur (or mech, or changer if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 93 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£135.00
Campagnolo Chorus / Athena pedals, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 386 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These seem to be identical to the D600 Athena pedals. The 1988 catalogue gives different part numbers for the pedal axles, but we haven't seen any discernible difference.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£95.00
Campagnolo Croce d'Aune seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 261 grams - pretty lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The seat post has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£95.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 203 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seat post has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£55.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record seatpost (or seat pin if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 321 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seat post has been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£45.00
Campagnolo Chorus / Athena toe straps (or pedal straps if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. The straps are grey in colour and made from leather/plastic, the perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too of course!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong toe straps!
The straps have been checked over, cleaned (as much as you can clean toe straps!) and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Toe Strap Type - standard toe clips are designed to accept single toe straps, but there are some that allow double toe straps to be fitted.
Strap Width - measured across one of the straps at its widest point.
Toe Strap Length - the total length including the buckle, measured to the nearest 0.5 cm.
£195.00
Campagnolo Chorus pedals, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel/leather and weighing in at 499 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Complete with original Campagnolo toe clips in size medium, with white straps. These seem to be identical to the D600 Athena pedals. The 1988 catalogue gives different part numbers for the pedal axles, but we haven't seen any discernible difference.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£135.00
Campagnolo Chorus / Athena pedals, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 388 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These seem to be identical to the D600 Athena pedals. The 1988 catalogue gives different part numbers for the pedal axles, but we haven't seen any discernible difference.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£115.00
Campagnolo Triomphe drop bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 234 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£115.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record drop bar brake levers (or handles if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 190 grams - pretty lightweight for brake levers at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The 3rd generation of the Nuovo Record levers have a shorter reach than previous generations, they were introduced in 1978 and produced until the mid 80s.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brake levers!
The brake levers have been cleaned, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake levers, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.
Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.
£75.00
Campagnolo Record / Chorus cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 285 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Introduced in 1994 (the final year of the C-Record era) and featuring the Exa-Drive spline pattern. The sprockets can be used on the earlier hubs with equally spaced notches on the freehub body.
The cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)'s been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)s wear with chains, so used cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer)s can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which cassette (or cog set, or sprockets if you prefer).OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the cassette.
Spline Pattern - the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the freehub body, this must match the spline pattern of your hub to able to fit. In the 1980s Shimano introduced Uniglide cassettes that share the same spline pattern as their now standard Hyperglide, but the smallest sprocket threads on to the hub to secure it rather than using a conventional lockring, these will only fit hubs with a threaded section on the outside of the freehub body.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
£115.00
Campagnolo Super Record headset, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 132 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong headset!
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard. Headclip headsets were made to fit fork steerers with 1" or the reduced 31/32" size steerers, as well as 1 1/8" versions for tandems.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£135.00
Campagnolo C-Record headset, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 135 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The headset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Headset Type - the 1" size relates to the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column which should measure 25.4 mm, if it's 25.0 mm your forks should be French threaded. Although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type. If you're replacing an old headset the thread may be stamped on there. Oversized 1 1/8" & 1 1/4" sizes are easily identifiable due to their size and the threads are all standard. Headclip headsets were made to fit fork steerers with 1" or the reduced 31/32" size steerers, as well as 1 1/8" versions for tandems.
Cup Size (OD) - the outside diameter of the cups, this must match the inside diameter of your frame's headtube closely for a good fit. For 1" headsets this should be around 30.2 mm unless you require a JIS headset which will be 30.0 mm.
Crown Race (ID) - the inside diameter of the crown race where it sits on the fork steerer, this needs to be close to the outside diameter of your fork steerer at the base to ensure a proper fit.
Stack Height - the overall height of the headset. To check the minimum stack height you require, measure the length of your frame’s head tube & subtract this from the length of the fork steerer column. You can always add spacers if you have a little too much steerer tube but you can't fit a headset with a greater stack height than the space you have available.
For further help with 1" threaded headsets head to our journal.
£95.00
Campagnolo Triomphe brake calipers, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 353 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong brakes!
The brakes have been cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Caliper Type - side pull calipers (single or dual pivot) require nothing more than a brake hole to fix them to as the cable feeds straight into one of the arms, whereas centre pull calipers require a brazed-on or fitted cable hanger to allow the cable to be pulled from the centre.
Brake Drop - measured from the centre of the brake mounting hole to the centre of the wheel rim in a straight line. Your measurement must be well within the range of the caliper's given brake drop to allow the brakes to have good contact with the rim's braking surface.
Brake Fixing - this refers to the way the brake is secured to the bike. For recessed allen key fixings the hole to the rear of the the fork crown/brake bridge should measure around 8mm, allowing the allen key head to be inserted and fixed to the brake bolt. External hex nut fixings require a hole of around 6mm, the hex nut is fixed to the protruding part of the brake bolt.
For a more detailed guide on getting the right brakes check out our journal.
£50.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Gran Sport rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 214 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£195.00
Campagnolo Rally rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 225 grams - pretty lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£85.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleur (or mech if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 199 grams - incredibly lightweight for a rear derailleur at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rear mech!
The mech's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Shifting system - friction means your gear levers don't click when you change gear, when they do click it's referred to as indexed shifting. If you have indexed gear levers they must use the same system as the rear derailleur, if you're using friction levers you can mix and match.
Speed - the number of cogs at the back the derailleur was designed to be used with. This is important with indexed shifting, but with friction shifters you can in theory run any rear mech with any number of cogs, but you are more likely to have issues running high numbers of cogs with mechs from earlier eras.
Max cog size - the amount of teeth on the largest cog of your freewheel/cassette can be no greater than this to work with this derailleur.
Chain wrap - subtract the size of your smallest rear cog from your biggest, then do the same with your chainrings, add the 2 numbers together and you have your chain wrap.
Chain width - generally speaking, derailleurs designed for more than 3 speed use will fit a standard 3/32'' chain, the exception being some Cyclo & Simplex models from around the mid 1900s.
£115.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 630 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£145.00
Campagnolo Super Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1981. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 607 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£135.00
Campagnolo Chorus chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1988. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 674 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£145.00
Campagnolo Super Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 615 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£265.00
Campagnolo C-Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1990/91. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 711 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£95.00
Campagnolo Triomphe chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1985. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 608 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£145.00
Campagnolo Super Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1977. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 587 grams - incredibly lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£80.00
Campagnolo Chorus bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£135.00
Campagnolo C-Record bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 225 grams - incredibly lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£45.00
Campagnolo C-Record cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£45.00
Campagnolo cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo C-Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The first C-Record bottom brackets used 3/16” bearings like the earlier Super Record titanium models. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£30.00
Campagnolo Super Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Titanium axle Super Record bottom brackets from the 70s & 80s used 3/16” bearings like the 1st generation C-Record model. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£25.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record / Gran Sport caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The majority of Campagnolo bottom brackets used 1/4” bearings. We’ve listed these ones, with steel cages and 11 bearings, as Nuovo Record / Gran Sport but they also came with many other models (Victory, Triomphe, Athena, Centaur, Xenon to name just a few).
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£30.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Chorus / Euclid BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
These were also supplied with many other Campagnolo bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the 1990s, including Athena, Centaur, Olympus & Xenon to name just a few.
The sleeve's been checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
£23.75 £25.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Chorus / Euclid bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These were also supplied with many other Campagnolo bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the 1990s, including Croce D'Aune, Athena, Centaur, Olympus & Xenon to name just a few.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record fixed bottom bracket cup, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 47 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cup!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a cup, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Thread Direction - fixed cups go on the right (drive side), and the thread direction you need depends on your frame's threading as mentioned above.
£61.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 104 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These Nuovo Record cups share the same design as the later Croce D'Aune ones, so they can be used interchangeably.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cups!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
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