Pre-1987 (Eroica Compliant)

Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.

Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.

Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.

Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.

Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.

Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.

Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.

Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.

Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.

Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.

Bike Type - this is just a guide, any brake levers can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.

Brake Type - if you’re running direct pull cantilevers (V-Brakes), you’ll need compatible brake levers. For calipers, cantilevers and mini V-brakes you’ll need levers designed to be used with these as the cable pull is different.

Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. 23.8 mm is standard for drop bars and 22.2 mm is standard for 'flat' bars (including risers & swept-back types), but they can differ so this should be checked.

Intended Side - some brake levers have a designated side to go on, although most can be used on either the left or right.

Cable Routing - non-aero means the cables come out at the top of the brake lever, meaning the cables are on show. With aero levers the cable comes out of a small hole by the handlebar, allowing the cables to be hidden under the handlebar tape.

Bar Clamp Size - this should be close to the outside diameter of your handlebars at the point the brake levers will be fitted. This will rarely present a problem with drop bars as 23.8 mm is standard, and a 24.2 mm clamp will fit just fine as they do have a little adjustment in them. There are some older sizes to watch out for but these will be noticeably different.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Clamp Opening - the minimum and maximum distance between the inside of the nut and bolt heads. The minimum is measured with the bolt tightened as much as possible (for hex head types this may mean the bolt end will stick quite far out of the nut). For the maximum opening we ensure 5-6 mm of thread remainis in the nut for a secure fixing.

Outer Diameter - the part that goes through the frame, most steel frames will take an 8 mm bolt whereas early lugged aluminium frames often have a larger hole that takes a 10 mm bolt diameter.

Bolt Fixing Type - Some binder bolts have knurled parts that grip the inside of the bolt hole, some have a small notch locator (a "key" that lines up with a cut-out in the frame if yours has one), others have tightening mechanism on both the nut and bolt to secure the seatpost in the frame.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Extension Length (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top.

Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.

Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.

Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.

Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.

Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.

Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.

Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.

Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Across Waist Band - this measurement is taken across the waist band at the top of the leggings whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the waist circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Across Hips - some waist bands are quite high so we also measure around the hip area. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the hips to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Full Length (Outside Leg) - measured from the top of the wasit band to the bottom of the hem, measured along the outside of the leg.

Inside Leg - measured from the centre of the crotch to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.

Across Quads - some leggings can have particularly tight or loose legs, so we also measure around the quad area to help with this. This is taken across the leggings whilst laid flat without stretching the elastic, where we assume the quads to be. This is an approximate measurement provided as a guide only.

Across Bottom Hem - taken across the bottom of one hem whilst laid flat, without stretching the elastic. To work out the hem circumference this measurement needs to be doubled.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.

Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.

ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.

TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.

Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.

Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).

Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.

Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.

Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.

Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).

Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!

Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.

Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.

If you require any further measurements please get in touch.

Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.

Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.

Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.

Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.