£49.50 £55.00
Sedis Sedisport chain, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chain!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£28.50 £30.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Apex / Super Custom bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 215 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
This axle is also compatible with other SR chainsets from the same era, including Aerox, CR, CX & Silstar.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£38.00 £40.00
Campagnolo Centaur bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 167 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
This axle is also compatible with other Campagnolo mountain bike chainsets from the same era, such as Euclid, Olympus, Icarus & Contax.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 148 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The very first Dura-Ace axles were stamped '333' with a date code that is specific to early Dura-Ace. The axles came with the GB-100 chainset but carried their own part number (137 0100), the specification remained the same when the FC-7110 chainset was introduced, so they are compatible with both models.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 149 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 177 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
Race Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1980s & 1990s
Country - Japanese
Material - Steel
Weight - 177 g
Stock Code - D-G3-BB-AS24V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - Square Taper
Axle Markings - 70-T (D-5NL)
Axle Length (D) - 122.5 mm
Axle Centre (B) - 53 mm
Axle Drive Side (C) - 37 mm
Axle Non-Drive Side (A) - 34.5 mm
Shell Width - 70 mm
NB: Check the help section to see how we take these measurements.
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£23.75 £25.00
Shimano Mountain LX / Exage bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 212 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Exage Mountain & Exage Trail also used these axles, so they are compatible with those too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£23.75 £25.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These are compatible with Apex as well as Super Apex chainsets / bottom bracket axles.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano 105 SC left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 102 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 78 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£28.50 £30.00
Shimano Deore XT left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 105 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£61.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 104 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These Nuovo Record cups share the same design as the later Croce D'Aune ones, so they can be used interchangeably.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cups!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record fixed bottom bracket cup, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 47 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cup!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a cup, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Thread Direction - fixed cups go on the right (drive side), and the thread direction you need depends on your frame's threading as mentioned above.
£14.25 £15.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£11.88 £12.50
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano 105 SC / Deore LX caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£11.88 £12.50
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal / Super Apex caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Dura-Ace caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo C-Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The first C-Record bottom brackets used 3/16” bearings like the earlier Super Record titanium models. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Zefal TX Switch bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£33.25 £35.00
Kenda K6302 tyres, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1980s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 665 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£33.25 £35.00
Panaracer Pasela tyres, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 560 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£23.75 £25.00
CST Super HP tyres, hailing from China and in production during the 1980s. Made from rubber and weighing in at 690 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong tyres!
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
£23.75 £25.00
Schwalbe Black Jack tyres, hailing from Germany. Made from rubber and weighing in at 1360 grams (the weight and price displayed are for a pair of tyres). A fine choice for keeping your modern bike correct, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The tyres have been thoroughly checked and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.
Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.
ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.
TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.
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