Under £25

Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.

End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.

Inner Diameter - most end caps will fit most classic drop bars and they do flex a little to give you some wiggle room. However, it's worth double checking this measurement to ensure the caps will fit your handlebars with bar tape fitted.

End Diameter - the diameter at the closed end stop, at its widest part.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Clamp Opening - the minimum and maximum distance between the inside of the nut and bolt heads. The minimum is measured with the bolt tightened as much as possible (for hex head types this may mean the bolt end will stick quite far out of the nut). For the maximum opening we ensure 5-6 mm of thread remainis in the nut for a secure fixing.

Outer Diameter - the part that goes through the frame, most steel frames will take an 8 mm bolt whereas early lugged aluminium frames often have a larger hole that takes a 10 mm bolt diameter.

Bolt Fixing Type - Some binder bolts have knurled parts that grip the inside of the bolt hole, some have a small notch locator (a "key" that lines up with a cut-out in the frame if yours has one), others have tightening mechanism on both the nut and bolt to secure the seatpost in the frame.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Size - almost all cycling bottles measure just under 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Size - this is the manufacturer’s sizing and must match the size or your wheels. This can be confusing as tyres have had different sizing systems over the years, and there are many (sometimes conflicting) sizes available. For this reason it’s important to check the ISO diameter too for clarification, especially for 26” wheels.

Bike Type - the type of bike the tyres were designed to be used on. Road tyres will generally be narrow with minimal tread, touring tyres wider with a bit more grip in the tread, and cyclocross & MTB tyres wider still (especially the latter), with a much more pronounced tread pattern.

ISO Diameter - this relates to the diameter of the wheel rims at the point where the tyres are seated (bead seat diameter). This is a universal measurement, often displayed on tyres as 28-622 or similar, 28 referring to the tyre width and 622 being the ISO diameter in millimetres.

TPI - stands for threads per inch and refers to the thread count of the tyre casings. A high thread count usually means more supple and lighter tyres, this can be anything as high as 320 tpi. We can’t always provide this information however, as it’s not always possible to know for sure.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Position - some brake pads are designed for front or rear use only, although most can be used on either. If they are front or rear specific they should only be used in that position.

Brake Fit - brake pads are specific to the type of brake so you need to use the correct ones.

Pad Type - replaceable (also known as cartridge) brake pads have inserts that can be replaced once they wear out. With one piece pads you do not have this option.

Rim Type - some wheel rims such as ceramic or carbon require brake pads to be made of specific compounds. If you have steel rims you can use pads designed for alloy rims but you will get much better performance when using the correct pads.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length (F/R) - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.

Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.

Length - it's important to check the cable is long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.

End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.

End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.

Cage Fixing - most bottle cages will be designed to fix to the frame, although some rare older ones mount to the handlebars and/or stem. If your frame doesn't have any bottle cage braze-ons to fix to you'll need a clamp-on bottle cage.

Bottle Fit - almost all cycling bottles measure between 70 - 75 mm in diameter so this is the standard bottle cage size, the only rather rare exceptions are some old Elite bottles that require a 66 mm cage, the more recent oversized ones and of course the funny shaped aero ones that only accept the bottle they were made for.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.

Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.

End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.

Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.

Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.

End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.

Plug Type - expanding plug inserts can be adjusted within the given range to fit different handlebar inner diameters. 'Push-in' plugs cannot do this, however they are usually designed to flex a little to give you some wiggle room.

Plug Insert Diameter - this needs to be a close match to the inside diameter of your handlebars, although the plug diameters can be increased a little using tape (cloth handlebar tape is perfect for this). The ranges given for expanding plugs are rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.

End Stop Diameter - the width of the end cap that butts up to the ends of your handlebars.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your fork's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Skewer type - quick release skewers allow you to remove the wheel without any tools, whereas allen key and security skewers require a tool to allow the wheel to be removed.

*Spacing - this should be within a few milimetres of your frame's outer dropout spacing (measured from the outside where the skewers clamp down). The measurement provided was taken with the exiting hole of the end nut flush with the end of the skewer. There will be some wiggle room to allow a narrower or wider dropout spacing to fit, we've provided the threaded section and end nut measurements to give you an indication of how much.

Threaded section - the amount of thread on the skewers for the end nut to be threaded onto.

End nut length - the total length of the nut from end to end.

Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.

Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.

Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.

Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.

Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.

Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.

Crank Bolt Type - 15 mm hex bolts used to be standard but some older TA, Stronglight and Zeus cranks used a larger 16 mm bolt, plus a few Japanese makers used a smaller 14 mm hex head. Allen key types were introduced in the 1980s and some are self-extracting, which means the crank removes itself when you undo the bolts.

Crank Bolt Thread - All square taper bottom brackets have a standard M8 x 1 mm thread, the only different thread types you’ll find on crank bolts are the much larger M12 & M15 bolts that are specifically for Octalink and ISIS bottom brackets.

Pit to Pit - this measurement is taken from the centre of one armpit to the other, across the chest with the jersey laid flat.

Top to Bottom - this will always be from the very top of the collar to the very bottom hem, we provide measurements for both the front and back, always taken with the jersey laid flat.

Shoulder Seam to Sleeve End - this measurement is taken from the shoulder seam down to the very end of the sleeve on the outside.

Across Neck - for consistency on all neck shapes we gather the front and back together and lay them flat, then measure across the stitching (as shown in the supporting photos).

Across Sleeve End - measured across the sleeve end, laid flat.

Toe Strap Type - standard toe clips are designed to accept single toe straps, but there are some that allow double toe straps to be fitted.

Strap Width - measured across one of the straps at its widest point.

Toe Strap Length - the total length including the buckle, measured to the nearest 0.5 cm.

Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.

Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.