£25.00
Kalloy KL60 stem, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 287 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£33.75 £45.00
ATAX stem, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 304 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong stem!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£41.25 £55.00
3TTT Quid stem, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a stem at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£41.25 £55.00
3TTT Mutant stem, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 310 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Extension Length (ctc)* - we measure from the centre of the handlebar clamp to the centre of the shaft, to the point where the stem bolt passes through, to the nearest 5 mm. We always take this measurement in a straight line through middle of the extension, not along the top. In some cases the stem may be stamped with a different extension length as some manufacturers measured differently, but we always use our own measurement for consitency.
Quill Size - the most common size for classic and vintage road bikes is 1", this should be the same as the outside diameter of your fork's steerer column. Oversized steerers found on mountain bikes and later road bikes will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".
Steerer Size (ID) - this is the most important measurement when checking the stem fits your bike. This should match the measurement of the inside of your fork's steerer column, where the stem will be inserted. The standard size for road quill stems was 22.2 mm, or 22.0 mm in France until the 1980s.
Total Shaft Height - measured from the top where the expander bolt head sits, to the bottom of the stem's shaft. To give you an idea of how high the stem can be set, there should be an absolute minimum of 50 mm inserted into the fork steerer, although most stems come with a 'minimum insertion line' to help with this.
Clamp Size - this should match the outside diameter of your handlebars and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
£26.25 £35.00
IRD 790 chain, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 360 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£26.25 £35.00
Taya Extreme chain, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 403 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Optimal Speed - the ideal number of rear cogs, based on the outer width of the chain and the cog width it was designed for. For 6 Speed Shimano Uniglide a 5/6 spd chain will perform best.
Shifting System(s) - indexed shifters 'click' when you change gear. For 9 speed upwards (or Suntour Accushift), to guarantee the best performance we recommend using the dedicated chain. Otherwise, for 8 speed and below, or any speed when using friction shifting (non-index), you just need the correct outer width.
Outer width - measured across the rivets at the widest point, these are the approximate widths for different speed setups (up to 4 speed is also dependent on cog width):
| Speed | Outer Width |
|---|---|
| 2 to 4 Speed (1/8”) | 8.5 to 9.5 mm |
| Up to 6 Speed (3/32”) | 7.8 to 8.0 mm |
| 7 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 6 Speed | 7.3 mm |
| 8 Speed / ‘Narrow’ 7 Speed | 7.0 to 7.3 mm |
| 9 Speed | 6.5 to 6.7 mm |
Cog Width - the gap between the inner plates allows for different rear cog/sprocket widths. 3/32" is the standard for 5 to 8 speed, above that it’s 11/128”. For 4 speed or less, 3/32” and 1/8” were both used, for the latter you will need a 1/8” chain. A wider 3/16" moped chain can be used as a heavy duty opton for single cog setups if required).
Chain pitch - the distance between the rivets/pins. All chains will be 1/2" with two exceptions; 3/16" (“inch pitch”) for very early track bikes, or Shimano's short lived 10 mm pitch system from the 70s/80s.
Number of links - if you're unsure how many you need, measure your old chain (each link has two rivets) or one with a similar setup to yours.
£25.50 £30.00
Unbranded vintage bullet nose (or candlestick if you prefer) seatpost, most likely in production from the 1950s to the 1960s. Made from steel and weighing in at 278 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Top to Bottom) - measured from the top to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£37.50 £50.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom-P3 seatpost, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 302 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
Please note: Once inserted into a frame this cannot be returned, so please make sure to double check the diameter is correct before installing.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£29.75 £35.00
3TTT Mod. Competizione seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 214 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£46.75 £55.00
Gipiemme Azzuro seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 357 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£46.75 £55.00
Zeus Criterium seatpost, hailing from Spain and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 371 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
The seatpost's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Seatpost Diameter - this needs to match the internal diameter of your frame’s seat tube closely, it should be possible to insert the seatpost without force but the fit should be tight enough so it doesn’t just drop in, with no play once inserted. If you have a post that fits the measurement should be stamped somewhere near the bottom, if not you’ll need to measure with a caliper or seatpost sizing tool as the sizes go up in 0.2 mm increments.
Length (Centre of Rails to Base) - measured from where the centre of the saddle rails will sit once installed, all the way to the bottom of the seatpost. Normally there’s a mark to tell you how much of the seatpost needs to be inserted in the frame, however this isn’t always the case so we’d recommend allowing a minimum of 6 cm.
£33.75 £45.00
Sachs-Huret AV69 1D front derailleur, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 113 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£40.50 £45.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 103 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£29.75 £35.00
Suntour Cyclone 7000 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1987. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 106 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
The front derailleur's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£33.25 £35.00
Campagnolo Xenon front derailleur, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 101 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£26.25 £35.00
Triplex front derailleur, hailing from Spain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 146 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£26.25 £35.00
Shimano 105 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 98 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£25.00
Shimano FD-AX50 front derailleur, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 150 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong front mech!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainset Type - the number of chainrings the derailleur was designed to work with. ‘Double’ derailleurs are actually capable of working on ‘triple’ chainsets but they may struggle when shifting, especially if there’s a big step down from the middle to inner ring, so it’s better to match these correctly.
Frame Fixing - the way the derailleur fixes to the frame, if you have a tab on your frame to mount the derailleur to you need braze-on. If there’s no tab then you require a clamp-on type (also referred to as band-on or clip-on), these come in different sizes to match the diameter of your seat tube.
Pull Type - the direction of which the cable needs to ‘pull’ the mech in order to shift. If your cable runs up to the derailleur from the bottom bracket area then you need bottom pull, if your cable comes down from above you need top pull. Some later derailleurs can be used for either setups, these are referred to as dual pull.
Designated Speed (9 Speed & Above) - the speed of the chain that the mech was designed to be used with. This only becomes relevant for mechs marketed as 9 speed or above when chains became narrower, as the derailleur cage plates became marginally narrower too. We refer to it as ‘designated’ speed as technically you can use (almost) any derailleur with any chain, however if you want optimum performance it’s best to stay close to the manufacturers recommendations.
Indexing System (Shimano Only) - this is only applicable when using Shimano shifters that have an indexed left shifter such as STI or Rapidfire. For the indexing to work correctly when using these shifters the derailleur and shifters must be of the same type, so Shimano drop bar shifters need to be matched with a Shimano ‘road’ derailleur, and Shimano flat bar shifters must be used with Shimano ‘MTB’ derailleurs.
£25.50 £30.00
Classic Wilton - Snel - De Hypotheker cycling cap, likely made in the 1990s/2000s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£27.00 £30.00
Vintage Van Der Heijden's Meubelen cycling cap, hailing from The Netherlands and likely made in the 1980s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cap!
The cap's been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL
Cap Type - we refer to the classic cycling cap type as summer/under helmet, although they can of course be used all year round. When worn under a helmet they provide comfort, sun protection and are sweat-wicking too. Winter hats will usually cover the ears and are referred to as 'Belgian' caps. Baseball caps were often worn by support teams or sold as branded merchandise.
Construction - the number of panels the cap body is made up of, not including the peak.
£45.00 £60.00
Aigle cycling shoes in size EU 39, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Rogelli cycling shoes in size 5, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£37.50 £50.00
Agu Sport cycling shoes in size EU 32, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£34.00 £40.00
Detto Pietro cycling shoes in size EU 33, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style. An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
The shoes have been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition. If there are any issues worth noting we’ll do so in the overview section below, but please take a good look at the photos so you can see the condition yourself before you buy.OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
A. Hartog cycling shoes in size EU 35, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 37.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 38.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Specialized 5500 cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£45.00 £60.00
Specialized 5500 cycling shoes in size EU 39, likely made in the 1990s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your classic bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a great alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£41.25 £55.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Caratti Sport cycling shoes in size EU 40.5, likely made in the 1970s/1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£41.25 £55.00
Caratti Prolite cycling shoes in size EU 39.5, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Gaerne cycling shoes in size EU 38, likely made in the 1980s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£48.75 £65.00
Unbranded cycling shoes in size EU 40, hailing from French and likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£37.50 £50.00
Piri cycling shoes in size EU 39, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£37.50 £50.00
Rossino cycling shoes in size 2, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£29.75 £35.00
Rogelli cycling shoes in size 9 Junior, likely made in the 1960s/1970s given the style (yet still new & unused after all this time!). An excellent choice for wearing on your vintage bike (or any occasion you fancy of course), and also a responsible alternative to buying brand new cycling kit!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong shoes!
OVERVIEW
DETAIL & MEASUREMENTS
Cleat Type - slotted' cleats fit onto traditional pedal cages and the foot is secured with toe clips and straps, various fixings types exist and some are brand specific. Most cleats for clipless road pedals fit the 3 bolt fixing invented by Look in the 80s, the exceptions being the 4 bolt fixing for Time's TBT system (and later Speedplay), and the Podio specific fixings for Merckx shoes. Mountain bike (SPD type) cleats have a standard 2 bolt fixing, and some shoes are even designed to take more than one type of cleat!
Length (Heel to Toe) - measured from the very back of the heel to the front of the toes at their furthest points. We find this measurement useful if you have a similar shape shoe to compare to, and although there will be variation in design, when combined with the width it can be helpful in determining whether the shoes will be a close fit or not.
Width (At Widest Part) - measured across the metatarsal at the widest part of the shoe, on the outside, not the inside.
If you require any further measurements please get in touch.
£25.00
Shimano Deore LX front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 219 grams - pretty lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£25.00
Shimano Deore front hub, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 233 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your fork's dropouts. Steel forks can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon forks should never be stretched.
£46.75 £55.00
Ritchey TR3 Comp rear hub, hailing from the United States and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 472 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Spoke Drilling - the number of holes for the spokes, your wheel rim needs to match the hub exactly.
Spacing (O.L.D.) - the width of the hub measured at its widest point, from the outside of the locking end nuts (O.L.D. = Over Locknut Dimension), not including the hub axle. This measurement needs to match the inside of your frame's dropouts. Steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Speed - the number of cogs the hub was designed to be used with.
Sprocket Fitting - for cassette hubs this refers to the spline pattern (the shape of the cogs where they slide on to the hub) and this must match the cassette you intend to use. With freewheel hubs it refers to the thread, ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Freewheel hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 292 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 303 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano BB-5500 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£25.50 £30.00
Shimano BB-UN52 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 332 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£34.00 £40.00
Shimano BB-ES51 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 262 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded classic handlebars, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 410 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
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