£275.00
Campagnolo C-Record pedals, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 524 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These first appeared in the 1993 catalogue alongside Delta brakes, so they're right at the back end of the C-Record era. The last generation, before being replaced by the PD-32REQR in 1995.
OVERVIEW
Body Condition - New Old Stock - In Original Packaging*
Bearing/Race Condition - New Old Stock - In Original Packaging*
Model ID - PD-22REQR
Production Era - 1990s
Country - Italian
Material - Aluminium / Steel
Weight - 524 g
Stock Code - D-PD-C29C
NB - Cleats & fixing bolts included, as seen in photos.
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Compatible Cleats - Look Delta
Pedal Threads - Standard (9/16" x 20 TPI)
Cleat System - the cleat the pedals were designed to fit. The brand of cleats doesn't have to match, as long as they were designed for the same system.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£221.25 £295.00
Campagnolo Centaur pedals, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 470 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£21.25 £25.00
Suntour SZ bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 357 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£72.25 £85.00
Sugino Mighty bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 271 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as mint condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£108.75 £145.00
Suntour Cyclone bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1985 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 284 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£89.25 £105.00
Campagnolo Croce d'Aune bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 264 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£56.25 £75.00
Ofmega 7150/R bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 366 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£146.25 £195.00
Campagnolo Record Pista bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £85.00
Stronglight SBBA bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 261 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £85.00
Stronglight SBBA bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 266 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £85.00
Stronglight SBBA bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminum and weighing in at 252 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £85.00
Stronglight SBBA bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 267 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 292 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 303 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£29.75 £35.00
Neco B960CAL bottom bracket, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel/carbon and weighing in at 246 grams - incredibly lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£25.50 £30.00
Campagnolo Mirage / Veloce bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 378 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £85.00
Stronglight SBBA bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 252 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£22.50 £30.00
FAG Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Switzerland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£50.00
Shimano BB-5500 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 259 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano BB-5500 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£56.25 £75.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 270 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£93.50 £110.00
Suntour Superbe bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 294 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£34.00 £40.00
Shimano BB-ES51 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 262 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£63.75 £75.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 295 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The very first Dura-Ace bottom bracket axles were stamped '333' with a date code that is specific to early Dura-Ace. The axles came with the GA-100 chainset but the specification remained the same when the FC-7110 chainset was introduced, so they are compatible with both models.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£59.50 £70.00
Campagnolo Mirage / Veloce bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 388 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£76.50 £90.00
Campagnolo Record Pista bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£26.25 £35.00
Unbranded classic handlebars, most likely in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 410 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£23.75
Freeway handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 420 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£18.75 £25.00
Freeway handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 420 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£30.00
Kalloy AL-001 handlebars, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 240 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£15.00 £20.00
Zoom MTB-110PP handlebars, hailing from China and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 415 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£27.50
Truvativ XR handlebars, hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 170 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£14.88 £18.00
Unbranded vintage handlebars, most likely in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 432 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bars have been checked, cleaned and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width - the total width at its widest point, from end to end, rounded to the nearest cm.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Grip Diameter - the outside diameter of the area where handlebar grips are fitted, this determines not only what grips will fit but brake levers too so it's important to check if you have a specific setup in mind.
Rise/Drop - we measure this at the end of the bars, from the centre point of the clamp area to the centre of the end. This measurent can change when the bar is rotated so there is a bit of tolerance here, please use this as an approximate measurement only.
£95.00
Cinelli Giro D'Italia drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 320 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but rise up then flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£56.25 £75.00
Cinelli Diet Eubios drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£93.75 £125.00
Cinelli Criterium drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 315 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£36.00 £40.00
Italmanubri (ITM) drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 565 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£71.25 £95.00
Deda Elementi 215 drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 245 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£71.25 £95.00
Deda Elementi 215 drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 255 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£31.50 £35.00
Deda Elementi 250 drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£34.00 £40.00
3TTT Start drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 315 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£40.00
3TTT Start drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 315 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£71.25 £95.00
3TTT Forma SL drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 275 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£33.75 £45.00
Ritchey drop handlebars, hailing from the United States and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£30.00 £40.00
Deda Elementi Big Piega drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£34.00 £40.00
Philippe (ATAX) Franco Italia drop handlebars, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 380 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£38.25 £45.00
Italmanubri (ITM) Mondial drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 285 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£34.00 £40.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Custom Road Champion drop handlebars, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 260 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bars!
The bars have been checked, handlebar tape residue removed and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
£71.25 £95.00
Modolo X-Tra Curvissima drop handlebars, hailing from Italy and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 215 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Width (ctc)* - measured at the ends of the drops, from the centre of one side to the other (ctc), to the nearest cm. In some cases the bars may display a different width as some brands measure outside to outside rather than ctc, but we always use this measurement for consistency.
Shape - Classic' drops have a smooth curve, 'anatomic' have multiple angles for different hand positions, 'compact' are short reach with a shallow drop and randonneur bars are usually classic in shape but flare out at the drops.
Clamp Size - this should match the internal diameter of your handlebar stem clamp, and should be as close as possible to ensure a good and safe fit.
Drop (ctc) - from the top flat section to the bottom of the drops, measured from the centre of one to the other with the flat part at the end of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Reach (ctc) - measured from the centre of the top section to the centre of the 'curve' at its furthest point, giving you the maximum reach. We measure this with the flat part at the end of of the drops parrallel to the ground.
Cable Groove - these allow you to run your cables neatly underneath the handlebar tape, if your setup requires this.
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