£56.25 £75.00
Zeus Gran Sport bottom bracket, hailing from Spain and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 301 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£93.75 £125.00
Campagnolo Chorus bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£15.00 £20.00
Stronglight JP400 bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 278 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£30.00 £40.00
T.D.C bottom bracket, hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 295 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£63.75 £85.00
Primax bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 281 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£108.75 £145.00
Stronglight JP1000A bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 310 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£116.25 £155.00
Galli Criterium bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 258 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£110.00
Tange Hirame Branded forks, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 823 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong forks!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£131.25 £175.00
Macleans Featherweight forks, hailing from Great Britain and in production during the 1940s. Made from steel and weighing in at 972 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong forks!
The forks have been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm there's no damage or alignment issues. If there are any minor defects worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the forks before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
J M Duret forks, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 807 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong forks!
The forks have been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm there's no damage or alignment issues. If there are any minor defects worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the forks before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£221.25 £295.00
Peugeot are perhaps the best known mass producers of bicycles and have a long and illustrious history. Cycles Peugeot began producing Penny Farthings in 1886, quickly moving with the technological advancements of the day and becoming one of the world's largest and most successful bike builders through the post war period and bike boom years. With an astonishing 500 models of bike available in the 1970s Peugeot were ubiquitous in Europe and North America, sales were aided by ongoing success with the factory professional team which won an unprecedented 10 Tour de France titles. The company strived to use French built parts on all of its bikes for many years, and there are many brilliant examples of their bikes fully decked out with parts from Stronglight, Simplex and Mavic.
The Puymorens was Peugeot's top of the range steel framed race bike and was used by the pro team in continental classic races. Built from Reynolds 531 'Professionnel' with their neat quill seatpost, the Puymorens was a lightweight race bike designed to go fast.
This mid 80s Puymorens has been refurbished by Argos at some point and carries Argos branding instead of the original Peugeot team logos. We assume that at the same time it was repainted the frame was converted to internal brake cable routing as this model was not available with this specification and there is a faint trace of where the original top tube cable stops would have lived. It is nicely finished in a typical Peugeot grey with chromed dropouts and drive side chainstay and some period brand decals.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Large (Approx 34 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 58.5 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 57.5 cm
Head Tube - 174 mm
Chainstay Length - 41.5 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
£337.50 £450.00
Lexpres was a small cycle shop in Antwerp, Belgium that built (or had built for them) bikes bearing their name in the late 1970s and early 1980s. There are very few examples of their bikes still in circulation, but it seems that track bikes were a speciality.
It is built from lightweight but strong Ishiwata 022 tubing with Shimano horizontal dropouts and Bocama lugs, and is not drilled for a brake. The frame is stamped '77' on the bottom bracket shell which given the frame details suggest this could well be the year of manufacture. With it's original paintwork and transfers this classic frameset is ready to be built up and put back to work on the boards.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 28 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 48.5 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 52 cm
Head Tube - 89 mm
Chainstay Length - 41 cm
Wheelbase - 95 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
£71.25 £95.00
Cyclo freewheel, hailing from France and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 355 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£89.25 £105.00
Sachs EY92 freewheel, hailing from Germany and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 340 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£26.25 £35.00
Simplex freewheel, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 543 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£33.75 £45.00
Suntour Winner freewheel, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1992. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 338 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£37.50 £50.00
Maillard 700 Compact Super freewheel, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 418 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£25.50 £30.00
Atom 77 freewheel, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 405 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong freewheel!
The freewheel's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy, and please consider that freewheels wear with chains, so used freewheels can occasionally skip when partnered with new (and some used) chains. This can usually be avoided by using a compatible used chain of similar age, but there is no way for us to confirm which chain will work with which freewheel.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Speed - the number of cogs on the freewheel.
Range - the number of teeth on the smalles and largest cogs, this gives you an indication of how hard or easy the gearing will be, the lower the number the harder the gears. The tooth count of the cogs inbetween are usually evenly spaced, ie: a 6 speed 14-24 freewheel would likely have cog sizes 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24.
Threading - this needs to match the thread of your rear hub. ISO is the modern standard and is almost exactly the same as older English/British and Italian thread, allowing you to mix and match between these thread types as long as it's not going to be under extreme force, in which case it's best to stick to an exact match. Hubs with a French thread must be used with a French threaded freewheel.
Stack Height - the total height (or width if you're looking at it when installed) of the freewheel, this is measured from the base (back of the largest cog) to the top (front of the smallest cog).
Chain width - this is mainly relevant for singlespeed and some older 3 or 4 speed freewheels - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain, but most freewheels (especially multiple speed ones) will use a standard 3/32” chain.
£26.25 £35.00
LOOK PP236 pedals, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 416 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Compatible Cleats - the cleat the pedals were designed to fit. The brand of cleats doesn't have to match, as long as they were designed for the same system.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£183.75 £245.00
Campagnolo Record Pista Superleggari / SL pedals, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 309 grams - incredibly lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£48.75 £65.00
Ofmega Super Competizione pedals, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 399 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£67.50 £90.00
Brampton B8 pedals, hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1940s to the 1950s. Made from steel and weighing in at 442 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
The pedals have been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£100.00
Lyotard 36 pedals, hailing from France and in production from the 1950s to the 1960s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 484 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£56.25 £75.00
Maillard CXC 650 pedals, hailing from France and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 375 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£41.25 £55.00
Shimano Light Action pedals, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1995 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 332 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£18.75 £25.00
Union White Plastic City pedals, hailing from Germany and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 329 grams - pretty lightweight for pedals at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica, Anjou Velo, Velo Retro or another similar vintage cycling event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong pedals!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Pedal Type - this is just a guide to give you an idea of the pedal type, but any pedal can technically be used for any purpose. Track pedals are designed without the pointed 'quill' for safety though, so it's best to only use track pedals for this purpose. Most track pedals, along with quill & aero road pedals are designed to be used with toe clips & straps for best performance.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread on your cranks. Sometimes it's stamped on the end of the crank arm, but most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
£22.50 £30.00
Prologo Choice Max Pro Ti saddle, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s. Made from plastic/synthetic and weighing in at 270 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£11.25 £15.00
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£56.25 £75.00
Selle Italia Turbo saddle, hailing from Italy and dating back to 1986. Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 352 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£41.25 £55.00
Cinelli Unicanitor saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 449 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£26.25 £35.00
Cinelli Unicanitor saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 437 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£168.75 £225.00
Cinelli Unicanitor VIP saddle, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from leather/steel and weighing in at 472 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong saddle!
The saddle's been checked over and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£86.25 £115.00
Shimano Deore LX hubs, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 703 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£47.50 £50.00
Shimano STX rear hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 434 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Shimano STX Special Edition front hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1993 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 232 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£21.50
Maillard Normandy Sport front hub, hailing from France and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 168 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Maillard Normandy Sport front hub, hailing from France and dating back to 1981 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 177 grams - incredibly lightweight for a front hub at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong hub!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£65.00
Shimano Deore XT rear hub, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1990 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 486 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£65.00
Shimano Acera-X hubs, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1995 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 651 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£63.75 £85.00
Shimano Alivio hubs, hailing from Japan and dating back to 1996 (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 660 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£146.25 £195.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Super Record seatpost, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 209 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£75.00
Mavic GP4 rim, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium and weighing in at 414 grams - pretty lightweight for a rim at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong rim!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£18.75 £25.00
Unbranded vintage Bullet Nose seatpost, most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel and weighing in at 157 grams - incredibly lightweight for seatposts at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong seatpost!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£33.75 £45.00
Fapi-Course chainset, in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel and weighing in at 1041 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Chain width - this is only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. All double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
*Intended speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
Crank arm length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Pedal threads - the pattern of the thread that your pedals screw into, this is usually stamped on the pedals themselves and most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
Bottom bracket type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
£93.75 £125.00
Sport Energy / Rigida DP18 CSB front wheel, the hub in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 966 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£318.75 £425.00
Though branded with Battaglin decals from the late 1980s, this appears to be a curious mix of a Bottecchia built frame with a Berma pantographed fork. The frame lugs carry the distinctive Bottecchia cut out shape, and the internal cable routing is in a style they used too, whilst the fork carries the Berma 'B' on the fork crown. The purple and neon yellow colour scheme is reminiscent of the Team Jolly Componibili colours, who rode on Battaglins in the 80s and 90s. With Campagnolo dropouts front and rear and a slotted bottom bracket this is a well made frame, regardless of its slightly confused identity!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this frame is of the correct age, so you won't be disqualified for being a rule breaker!
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - Small/Medium (Approx 30 1/2" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 52 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 53 cm
Head Tube - 114 mm
Chainstay Length - 40.5 cm
Wheelbase - 97.5 mm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
£26.25 £35.00
Maillard / Unbranded front wheel, the hub hailing from France and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 852 grams - pretty lightweight for a front wheel at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as poor condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£367.50 £490.00
Campagnolo Record Pista wheels built with Mavic GP4 Red Label rims, the hubs hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 1.8 kg - incredibly lightweight for a pair of wheels at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheels!
The wheels have been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£210.00 £280.00
Ofmega Master wheels built with Mavic Monthlery Pro rims, the hubs hailing from Italy and in production during the 1970s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 1.9 kg - pretty lightweight for a pair of wheels at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheels!
The wheels have been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
£71.25 £95.00
Shimano 105 / Mavic Open 4 CD front wheel, the hub hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 998 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong wheel!
The wheel's been serviced, checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
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