£265.00
Campagnolo C-Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1990/91. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 711 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£110.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1980. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 668 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£95.00
Campagnolo Triomphe chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1985. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 608 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£95.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1980. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 550 grams - incredibly lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£145.00
Campagnolo Super Record chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Italy and dating back to 1977. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 587 grams - incredibly lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£165.00
Shimano Dura-Ace chainset (or crankset, if you prefer), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1986. Made from aluminium and weighing in at 646 grams - pretty lightweight for a chainset at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong chainset!
The chainset's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Chainring Count - the number of chainrings on the chainset. Fixed gear track bikes, single-speeds and some geared bikes use a single chainring, road bikes commonly use a double (two rings) and most touring bikes and mountain bikes will use a triple chainset (three rings).
Tooth Count - the number of teeth on the chainring(s), the higher the number the harder the gear.
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have a square shaped axle that slots into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system. Since then, different manufacturers have introduced their own systems that are not interchangeable so you must use a chainset that matches.
BCD - stands for Bolt Circle Diameter (sometimes referred to as PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter) and is only really needed when changing chainrings. To calculate the BCD, measure the distance in millimeters from the centre of any chainring bolt to the centre of an adjacent one and multiply it by 1.709 (you’ll likely need to round the resulting number up or down a little to get your BCD measurement).
Crank Arm Length - this is measured from the absolute centre of the bottom bracket hole to the centre of the hole for the pedal.
Chain Width - this is mostly only relevant for chainsets with a single chainring - if this is ⅛” then you must use a ⅛” chain. Almost all double and triple (and some single) ring chainsets will use a standard 3/32” chain, the only exception being old chainsets designed for 3 or 4 speed freewheels.
Pedal Threads - this must match the thread of your pedals and is usually stamped on the pedals themselves, most bikes use a standard thread of 9/16” x 20 tpi. The exceptions being older French bikes, bikes with cheaper one-piece type chainsets and Shimano’s Dyna Drive system (easily identifiable as the pedal holes are about an inch wide!).
*Intended Speed - the number of cogs at the back the chainset was designed to be used with. We refer to it as ‘intended’ speed as most double and triple chainsets will actually work with different speeds than originally intended, but the further away you get from the intended speed the more likely you are to experience minor setup issues. The exception being some chainsets intended for 10 speed use or higher, with these it’s better to stick to the intended speed.
*Bike Type - this is just a guide, any chainset can technically be used on any bike as long as everything's compatible.
*Matching Bottom Bracket(s) - if known, based on standard rear spacing of the period. For square tapers, ISO and JIS standards were introduced in the early 1990s; earlier cranks were designed to fit the proprietary taper. Alternatives can achieve the same chainline and clearance if the axle has the same taper and dimensions, and sticking to the same manufacturer and era will help. Mixing tapers is not recommended, as it can damage the cranks.
NB: “ITA” refers to Italian-threaded frames (70 mm BB shell).
£65.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1972/73. Made from steel and weighing in at 295 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
When the Dura-Ace 7100 series was introduced in the 1980s the bottom bracket spec didn't change, so the GB-100 bottom brackets are compatible with both the earlier GA-200 / GA-300 series as well as the later FC-7100, as long as the axle length is correct.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£80.00
Campagnolo Chorus bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 286 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£85.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 230 grams - incredibly lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The Dura-Ace BB-7500 was designed to be used with the FC-7000 & FC-7500 track cranksets, but also the FC-7200 (Dura-Ace EX) and FC-7300 (Dura-Ace AX) road models featuring the Dyna Drive pedal system. The spec is also the same as the earlier GB-100 bottom brackets required for the Dura-Ace 10 series track cranks, so can be used interchangeably as long as the axle length is correct.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£65.00
Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1972. Made from steel and weighing in at 266 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
When the Dura-Ace 7100 series was introduced in the 1980s the bottom bracket spec didn't change, so the GB-100 bottom brackets are compatible with both the earlier GA-200 / GA-300 series as well as the later FC-7100, as long as the axle length is correct.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£90.00
Shimano Dura-Ace EX bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Japan and dating back to 1980. Made from steel and weighing in at 253 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The Dura-Ace BB-7500 was designed to be used with the FC-7000 & FC-7500 track cranksets, but also the FC-7200 (Dura-Ace EX) and FC-7300 (Dura-Ace AX) road models featuring the Dyna Drive pedal system. The spec is also the same as the earlier GB-100 bottom brackets required for the Dura-Ace 10 series track cranks, so can be used interchangeably as long as the axle length is correct.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£17.50
Shimano Dura-Ace set of 2 inner cables (or wires if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong cables!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Length (F/R) - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
End Nipple Type - only relevant for brake cables. 'Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£12.50
Shimano Deore cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Designed to house the oversized 2 mm Deore XT inner cables. Comes in one 2.25 metre length with 2 oversized ferrules, enough for full runs to both front & rear brakes.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£20.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£15.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£15.00
Unbranded vintage cable housing (or outer casing if you prefer), most likely in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
A great substitute for the iconic Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record cable outer from the 70s/80s, similar in colour and style and the inner is lined.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Housing Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are generally not interchangeable, although older bikes with non-index shifting often used brake housing instead of gear. We'd still recommend using the dedicated front or rear derailleur cable housings for non-index setups whenever possible.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Ferrule Size - if ferrules are included, this measurement is of the outside diameter at the widest part.
£25.00
Shimano Deore cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£45.00
Campagnolo C-Record cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your classic bike, but great for bikes of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£20.00
Shimano Deore XT cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Complete with 2 outer ferrules to fit the 6 mm outer and end caps for the 2 mm inner cables. The casing is one 2.25 metre length, enough for a full run to the rear brake. A rare find!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£45.00
Campagnolo cable set (outer casing and inner wires), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Position - rear cables need to be longer than fronts, this is the only difference so cables long enough for the rear can also be used on the front.
Cable Type - brake and gear cables have different specifications and are not interchangeable.
Casing Width - the outside diameter of the housing. Brake cable housing is a little wider in diameter than gear, this is to accommodate the slightly thicker inner cables.
Length - it's important to check the cables are long enough for your setup. Some gear cables are designed for downtube gear levers only and there won't be enough cable to be used otherwise.
Brake End Nipple Type - Pear' type cable ends step down in size to allow them to be used with drop bar brake levers normally found on road bikes, whereas flat bar levers usually require a 'barrel' end that sits in a similar shape slot within the brake levers.
End Nipple Diameter - for 'pear' type ends this is the diameter at its widest part, with barrel ends it's the diameter of the circular part.
£30.00
Zefal MT. Mini Double Shot bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£14.25 £15.00
Zefal TX Switch bicycle pump, hailing from France and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). An excellent choice for classic cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-classic variety too!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Valve Type - there are 3 types of valves; Presta are thin with a little knurled nut on the end, Schrader are wider (the same as you would find on a car), and the less common Woods (aka "Dunlop"). Pumps designed for Presta valves can be used on Woods valves. Some pumps use hose connectors, these are available for all valve types.
£38.00 £40.00
Vintage hairnet head protector (or Danish helmet if you prefer), most likely in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. An excellent choice for vintage cycling enthusiasts, but great for cyclists of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, a hairnet is the perfect finishing touch. It won't give you the protection of a modern helmet of course, so please take care, but you'll certainly look the part.
The helmet's been thoroughly checked over and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Head Circumference - measured around the inside edge of the head band. The material often has a little flex but this needs to be close to your head circumference for a secure fit. This may differ from any stamp / label on the product, as we measure this ourselves for accuracy consistency.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo C-Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The first C-Record bottom brackets used 3/16” bearings like the earlier Super Record titanium models. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£30.00
Campagnolo Super Record caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
Titanium axle Super Record bottom brackets from the 70s & 80s used 3/16” bearings like the 1st generation C-Record model. These bearings are compatible with both models as they're identical in spec.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Dura-Ace caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£11.88 £12.50
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Royal / Super Apex caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano 105 SC / Deore LX caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£25.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record / Gran Sport caged bottom bracket bearing set (or ball races if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). The perfect finishing touch for your vintage bike, but great for bikes of the non-vintage variety too!
The majority of Campagnolo bottom brackets used 1/4” bearings. We’ve listed these ones, with steel cages and 11 bearings, as Nuovo Record / Gran Sport but they also came with many other models (Victory, Triomphe, Athena, Centaur, Xenon to name just a few).
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bearings!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bearing Size - most bottom brackets use 1/4" bearings, but there are some that use smaller sizes so it's advisable to measure your old ones or check with a local bike shop to be sure.
Retainer Type - you can use any type of retaining cage in any bottom bracket as long as the bearing sizes are correct.
£30.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Chorus / Euclid BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
These were also supplied with many other Campagnolo bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the 1990s, including Athena, Centaur, Olympus & Xenon to name just a few.
The sleeve's been checked, cleaned and graded as excellent condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
£15.00
Shimano 600 / Deore XT BB barrel sleeve protector (or cover, or seal, or shield, or boot!), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike's bottom bracket free from dust and water, but great for all bikes with cup & cone BBs as the sleeves are all a standard size.
These were also supplied with many other Shimano bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the early 1990s, including Deore DX, 105, RX100 & Exage to name just a few.
OVERVIEW
£25.00
Campagnolo Nuovo/Super/C-Record bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
As well as the various Record groups, these were also supplied with Gran Sport, Victory & Triomphe bottom brackets in the 1970s & 80s.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£11.88 £12.50
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 12 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano Dura-Ace / 600 bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 14 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£23.75 £25.00
Campagnolo C-Record / Chorus / Euclid bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 13 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These were also supplied with many other Campagnolo bottom brackets from the late 1980s to the 1990s, including Croce D'Aune, Athena, Centaur, Olympus & Xenon to name just a few.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£14.25 £15.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex bottom bracket lockring (or locking ring if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 16 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong lockring
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Thread Type - this must match the thread of your bottom bracket for the lockring to fit.
Thread Direction - most bottom brackets only have an adjustable cup on the non-driveside of the bike, so lockrings mostly thread to the right (clockwise), regardless of the thread type. However, some bottom brackets have adjustable cups on both sides so the thread direction may be different.
Thickness - this is rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm.
£28.50 £30.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record fixed bottom bracket cup, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 47 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cup!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a cup, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Thread Direction - fixed cups go on the right (drive side), and the thread direction you need depends on your frame's threading as mentioned above.
£23.75 £25.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record adjustable bottom bracket cup, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 45 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cup!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a cup, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Thread Direction - the left (non-drive side) cup always threads to the right, whereas the right (drive side) cup's direction depends on the frame's threading, as mentioned above. Adjustable cups are normally used on the non-driveside; however, some bottom brackets use adjustable cups on both sides.
£61.75 £65.00
Campagnolo Nuovo Record left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 104 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These Nuovo Record cups share the same design as the later Croce D'Aune ones, so they can be used interchangeably.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, these are fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong BB cups!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£20.00
Shimano Deore LX / Exage Mountain left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 90 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£28.50 £30.00
Shimano Deore XT left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 105 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£38.00 £40.00
Shimano Dura-Ace left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 78 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£45.00
Campagnolo Centaur / Euclid / Olympus left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 85 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The spec of these cups is the same as other Campagnolo mountain bike ones from the same era, so they're also compatible with other models such as Euclid, Olympus, Icarus & Contax.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£19.00 £20.00
Shimano 105 SC left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 102 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Sakae/Ringyo (SR) Super Apex left and right bottom bracket cup set, hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 87 grams (for the pair). A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
These are compatible with Apex as well as Super Apex chainsets / bottom bracket axles.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Bottom Bracket Type - ‘square taper’, as the name suggests have square shaped axle ends that slot into the chainset and ‘cottered’ axles are round and secured by pins - pretty much every bike up until the 1990s would use one of these, cottered being the much earlier system.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing cups, they often have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
£23.75 £25.00
Shimano Mountain LX / Exage bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 212 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
Exage Mountain & Exage Trail also used these axles, so they are compatible with those too.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Shimano Deore XT bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 177 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
Race Condition - New Old Stock*
Production Era - 1980s & 1990s
Country - Japanese
Material - Steel
Weight - 177 g
Stock Code - D-G3-BB-AS24V
*New old stock items may have marks from storage over the years, and as we often have multiples they can vary from piece to piece, but they are always genuine new & unused items.
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - Square Taper
Axle Markings - 70-T (D-5NL)
Axle Length (D) - 122.5 mm
Axle Centre (B) - 53 mm
Axle Drive Side (C) - 37 mm
Axle Non-Drive Side (A) - 34.5 mm
Shell Width - 70 mm
NB: Check the help section to see how we take these measurements.
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

£33.25 £35.00
Sugino Royal bottom bracket axle (or BB spindle if you prefer), hailing from Japan and in production during the 1970s (yet still new & unused after all this time). Made from steel and weighing in at 149 grams. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or any other vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong axle!
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
Axle Type - for square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
Axle Length (D) - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing an axle that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Centre (B) - measured from the outside of the 'shoulders' of the bearing races, as seen in the diagram.
Drive Side (C) - the right side (with any logos etc on the axle facing you), your right crank and chainrings will mount to this side.
Non-Drive Side (A) - the left side, where the left crank arm will be mounted.
Shell Width - the width of the bottom bracket shell the axle was designed to fit, measured at its widest point.

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